| The Mercury is rising once again. It was a sad day when it was announced that the martini bar would be leaving its home due to the redevelopment of the Mount Royal Block, but with more space to play in at its new location, it looks like the Mercury got the better deal in the end.
It’s also swankier and features the restaurant ei8ht, named for the owners’ birthdates, its auspiciousness and because it’s the past tense of eat. That the restaurant possesses a name different from the Mercury implies that it wants recognition as a distinct entity. Indeed, ei8ht management says the black curtain separating the two rooms won’t be swept aside until the last sip of dessert wine has been taken, and when it has consensus from the dining room.
The beautiful hardwood interior of the bar continues into the restaurant, where its sultry mood is lit with varying sizes of hanging lampshades. Computer-generated images of water undulate on the three flat-screens above the long bar. Water appears to be a theme here – upstairs in Mercury, you’ll find goldfish swimming inside the bar, inciting that age-old debate about whether fish are artwork or pets.
While the Mercury’s original menu featured casual fare such as quesadillas, a chicken and Brie sandwich, and roasted vegetables with blue cheese dip, ei8ht is a completely different beast – more pretentious, offering an amuse-bouche and pricey entrées ranging from $23 to $38. Chef Andrew Tutt, formerly of Catch and the Stratford Chefs School in Ontario, has created a menu of West Coast comfort food, featuring a large selection of seafood dishes. Our dining experience began with a nicely chilled palette popper of salmon and chèvre with candied onions held together with a twist of grilled eggplant. More in the mood for a few small dishes, we ordered three appetizers and shared an entrée. The baked Camembert with a pear and raisin chutney was lovely, and we spread it generously on the accompanying pieces of toasted sourdough ($11).
Also a hit were the five meatballs lightly spiced in an organic tomato sauce and sprinkled with Romano cheese ($9). On opening weekend, my friend enjoyed the crab and lobster cakes, which she said were hot and moist, with big pieces of lobster accompanied by a mango and vanilla bean relish, and curry aioli. But this night they were inedible — cold, dry, gritty and pungently fishy ($17). I was disappointed this item wasn’t taken off the bill. Other appetizers include chili-and-lime-crusted ahi tuna, ricotta and mascarpone ravioli, tamarind-seared giant scallops with wild boar bacon, and squash and shitake mushroom risotto.
While ei8ht’s entrées are not served in the Mercury, the majority of its appetizers are. Along with the above mentioned are calamari in a honey-lime tamarind mayonnaise, P.E.I. mussels in a lemon grass, lime coconut broth, and a Galloway burger with garlic aioli, Cambazola cheese and smoked bacon.
Our entrée was delicious. The poached Alaskan black cod with a parsnip purée and maple soy dressing was soft and melt-in-your-mouth ($29). The other entrées sound impressive: a roasted breast of corn-fed chicken stuffed with wilted greens, candied figs and Cambazola cheese ($24), a hazelnut-crusted rack of lamb with a celeriac purée ($38), and a Brome Lake (Quebec) duck breast in a ginger, red wine reduction with scallion dumplings and cauliflower purée ($27). Lunch offers a pared-down version of the dinner menu as well as soups, salads and pasta specials.
Our server had a great personality and was most attentive. He offered dessert, but we had to pass on the hazelnut praline, vanilla bean panacotta, citrus tart, and ice creams and sorbets.
By 8 p.m., the 60-seat dining room was full and buzzing. While I don’t see myself settling into a night of serious cuisine here, I’ll order a $38 entrée at a fine dining establishment, I will definitely return to enjoy the drinks and appetizers in this happening place.
ei8ht is located at 1530 — 5 St. S.W.; phone 806-0884. |
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