| Just as England’s Belgo Bierodome is a "must see" sight for beer lovers in London, with as many pieces in its collection as the National Gallery and the British Museum, Belgo Brasserie is a "must visit" location in Calgary for its own reasons.
If comparisons to other famous beer restaurants must be made, the Calgary Belgo is more reminiscent of the Esplanade Bier Markt in Toronto. Even so, the local establishment is able to stand on its own merits.
While the beer menu is not extensive, it is carefully selected, with beers appropriate for pairing with each course of the meal. There is an obvious favouring of Belgian greats, but French, German and Canadian selections can also be found. While there are no exclusive or new beers on the menu, what makes it noteworthy is that the beers are featured front and centre. Again, the list is not extensive, but it’s the respect that the beer is shown that represents the beginning of a new beer era in Calgary.
Indeed, a separate, spiral-bound beer menu has been created featuring tasting notes and food pairing suggestions. Unfortunately, the suggestions are only in one direction, with food being suggested for each beer, but no beer being suggested for each food item. However, the staff was sufficiently educated enough to make beer suggestions for the food.
Each beer is presented in its own silk-screened glass, which is important for Belgian beers, each glass being shaped to accentuate the unique characteristics of its corresponding beer. The food, much of which is prepared with beer, is excellent.
Personally, I enjoyed the fallen Rochefort and tarragon soufflé in a wild mushroom sauté with a glass of Orval, a Belgian Trappist ale, and the blackened sablefish with saffron risotto with a glass of Erdinger, a German Weiss beer. Orval is a world classic with unique flavours, and one of the best beers to pair with stronger cheeses, making the pairing with the Rochefort soufflé as wonderful as it is obvious.
I selected Erdinger to partner with the sablefish and risotto because it has been a long time since I last enjoyed this fine beer on draft, although Hoegaarden, a Belgian wit beer also available at Belgo, would probably have worked better. Still, the Erdinger, brewed with malted wheat in compliance with the famous Reinheitsgebot German purity laws, has a gentle flavour, balanced slightly to the bitter side and highly carbonated. The gentleness of this beer makes it a perfect accompaniment to the subtle flavours of the sablefish, while the high level of carbonation scrubs the palate clean of the fat and cheese of the risotto. While these fats will kill the head on your beer, the carbonation scrubbing allows each bite of this delicious entree to be enjoyed with a renewed palate.
While Belgo is not yet up to the standards of the famous London and Toronto beer establishments, it is a great place with potential. You will see me there again – I'll be the one smiling behind all the empty beer glasses. |
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