| Paul Vickers has added yet another property to his urban entertainment empire with the much anticipated and newly opened Belgo Brasserie. The latest venture romances Belgian beers, as well as other international premium beers, and showcases traditional French dishes with a modern flair.
Taking over the space vacated by Mr. Big & Tall, with 180 seats on three floors spread over 9,000 square feet, and high, vaulted ceilings, Belgo remains big and tall. In fact, its layout and interior design are reminiscent of Penny Lane Entertainment’s (PLE) Chicago Chophouse, which itself received an interior makeover last spring.
A dazzling bar takes the place of pride on Belgo’s main level, surrounded by a casual lounge with high-top table seating. The second and third floor mezzanines offer a slightly more formal setting, lit by Art Deco pendant boxes, all within a sleek, espresso-toned wood interior. It feels laid-back and minus the PLE attitude.
But the question floating around the city is whether Calgary’s Belgo is modelled after, or has any connection to, the Belgo Restaurants & Bierodome that originated in England in 1992 and today boasts five locations across London. The originator's concept was to bring Belgian cuisine to England and to serve its specialty dishes, such as mussels and fries, with Belgian beers at an affordable price. The management of the Calgary Belgo says it’s neither inspired by, nor affiliated with, the British restaurant. Mere coincidence? I am naturally suspicious.
A steaming pot of moules accompanied by crispy golden frites with creamy mayonnaise is, indeed, the heart of Belgian food. And so our Belgo experience began with a generous order of meaty mussels in a sorrel and chardonnay broth served in a silver pot, its lid functioning as the empty shell receptacle. A sleeve of fries perched in a wrought-iron conical stand came with a delicious aioli mayonnaise ($15). Mussels also come in lemongrass and Thai basil with coconut milk, or in a tomato fennel broth whose licorice flavour is offset by chorizo. The moules and frites were a huge hit and I can see this appetizer flying out the kitchen.
The Belgian beers are so distinctive in taste that they lend themselves perfectly to being used as a marinade, sauce or flavouring in cooking. Our second appetizer, a perfect example of this cuisine à la bière, was a lovely fallen Roquefort and tarragon soufflé, in a wild mushroom sauté and Belgian beer syrup ($11). Our waiter also recommended the duck trilogy ($19) – foie gras, confit spring roll and proscuitto – paired with a Quebec apple cider ice wine. The most fun on the menu is to be had with the appetizers.
The dinner entrees, ranging in price from $24 to $42, feature rich, heavy dishes, such as Quebec veal shank, porcini-crusted ahi tuna, seafood bouillabaisse, pork tenderloin roasted in boar bacon, and asparagus and Boursin cheese crepes. We ordered the Dijon-roasted lamb sirloin Provençal ($32) and sablefish medallions ($35). Tender slices of lamb sat atop asparagus and perfected Yukon gold potato Dauphinoise, but I didn’t much care for the tomato tartare and minted jus. The latter tasted like tomato-flavoured gravy and I couldn’t detect any hint of mint. The blackened medallions of sablefish were beautifully presented. The melt-in-your-mouth fish topped a bed of saffron risotto, with pieces of broccoli in mango and coriander compote, framed with mussels.
At lunch, you’ll find a few of the same soups and salads from the dinner menu, with add-ons of chicken or shrimp. Otherwise, it’s a completely different menu, featuring more traditional bistro-style fare. There’s quiche, niçoise salad, Cobb salad, croque monsieur and an Italian sandwich with grilled chicken breast, pancetta, roasted peppers and Sylvan Star Gouda cheese on focaccia bread.
Whenever a restaurant opens, it generally takes a few weeks to find its footing. Even though it was a quiet night and it had only been open a short time, Belgo made not one fumble. Our server (who bore a striking resemblance to Canadian idol Ryan Malcolm) was refreshingly amiable, attentive and knowledgeable of the menu and its beer and food pairings. In fact, many of Belgo’s staff hail from Quebec, where Vickers visited last spring for the specific purpose of seducing its seasoned waiters over yonder. My only complaint is that the music swung erratically between soft jazz and loud, clubby techno beats. But overall, Belgo’s tune is right.
Belgo is located at 501 - 8 Ave. S.W.; phone 265-6555. |
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