| Rather than "Closed Temporarily for Renovations," the sign in the window of Teatro this summer and fall said, "Gone to Market." Why? Because the posh restaurant at the west end of Olympic Plaza spent most of that time on a rather chef-indulgent shopping spree. Then, to house all its imported prizes, it tore the guts out of its 12-year-old kitchen, which is now expanded into the basement of what was once the Auburn Saloon.
This was no cosmetic makeover – it was a major kitchen overhaul sure to be the envy of every chef in Calgary. "Nothing but the best," said owner Dario Berloni, over and over again. Now we know that also means absolutely nothing but the best for those who will be dining at Teatro, over and over again.
Lest you think there were no esthetic front-house improvements, notice the brocade-upholstered open clamshell booths that were custom-made by Domicile and serve as a more natural divider between bar and restaurant. Matching banquettes further cozy-up the former austerity. A new sound system and more strategic lighting are further examples of the subtle but fundamental upgrades. No bombastic, in-your-face changes here –Teatro, the local institution that it is, wasn’t interested in reinventing itself. Rather, it was making behind-the-scenes improvements on its overall performance.
OK, not completely behind the scenes. Feast your eyes on those copper kitchen hoods and that French-imported rotisserie with proud chef Dominique Moussu standing by. Self-basting in that rotating red-and-gold magnificence is a suckling pig (youthful pig) and poussin (youthful chicken). It’s official: forno ovens are out, rotisserie is in! A Miraclean grill allows the simultaneous cooking of different meats without any transfer of flavour. Twelve more burners have been added to better handle high volume. And why not have entirely separate spaces to prep and handle fish? There’s marble here and there for working with bread and chocolate or anything cold. The freshest ice cream is made to order "à la minute." If your tablecloth feels warm, it’s likely due to the quick once-over it received with a portable iron when it was reset. Even the staff is well fed – everyone sits down, pre-shift, to a family-style dinner. Ah, nothing but the best.
Upon arrival, and to open the palate, everyone receives an amuse-bouche. We were offered delicious tuna tartar. The menu has graduated from the more common one-sheet format to a very tasteful two-page presentation. It opens up to the new "Tasting Menu" for $90 a person ($140 with wine), which features an antipasti platter, venison, crab ravioli, a daily selection from the rotisserie, an artisan cheese plate and a sampling of sweets.
We chose to start with Caesar salad, which was served with jumbo prawns in impossibly thin and tender tempura. We enjoyed the Market Rotisserie Poussin – juicy, flavourful and crispy (priced according to market). Thanks to Edwin, sommelier extraordinaire, for introducing us to the 2002 Yves Cuilleron Condrieu ''Les Chaillets.'' General manager Cassandra Watson highly recommends the Foie Gras Ravioli ($22) for our next visit.
In the future, expect the old Auburn Saloon space to serve as Teatro’s private dining room. Teatro extends its high performance all the way to waste management by being the first restaurant to sign up for organic composting. To reach its goal of zero waste, it will recycle everything.
My well-travelled guest pointed out that a restaurant of this calibre, in a more densely urban city, would typically be booked months in advance. Living in Calgary, among only a million others, makes it possible for us to dine at establishments like Teatro on shorter notice. Well, at least for now. Reservations are strongly recommended.
The refurbished Teatro gets a standing ovation for setting the stage – and the standard – for the best Calgary dining experience possible.
Teatro Restaurant is located at 200 - 8 Ave. S.E. For reservations, call 290-1012. |
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