| If wine’s greatest asset lies in its diversity, and I firmly believe this to be true, then Portugal is among the richest of wine-producing nations.
While the rest of the world was busy propagating the French example, planting popular grapes such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet, Portugal remained steadfast, hedging its bets on native varietals. Believing in the quality of such obscure grapes as Touriga Francesca, Tinta Cao, Loureiro and Trajadura, the Portuguese continued to slowly plod away while the rest of the wine world was moving quickly for international market share. Whether this was a result of a complete ignorance as to what was happening elsewhere, or a brilliant ploy to maintain individuality in an ever-homogenized world market, the result has left Portugal in a very unique position.
As the wine market has become increasingly competitive, Portugal has the luxury of being able to offer wines that are both interesting and completely original – something consumers seem to be thirsting for more and more. Portugal continues to improve the quality of its wines every year, and while they have not yet arrived as a market leader, most experts agree there is tremendous potential here for both reds and whites.
Although the country is made up of a complex system of geographically demarcated regions, it is easiest to understand Portugal if you split the country into north and south and consider the two or three major regions in each. The styles vary greatly here, as the wines of the northern regions tend to be dark and intense with higher acidity and more pronounced tannin, which can require long periods of aging before they become approachable. Those in the south tend to be softer, but generally maintain the rich, rustic character of the fruit from which they come. Although modern technology has moved in, and in most cases improved the wines, they still manage to maintain a sense of the ancient and a strong connection to their land – which is a rare commodity in what is now primarily a brand-dominated market.
The Douro River valley remains Portugal’s most famous region for the strong fortified wine we know simply as port. This was the world’s first demarcated region, from 1756, and yet it was not until recently that more than a few producers here have tried their hand at a table wine. The inhospitable, steep schist and slate terraces are home to a few dozen native grapes of which Touriga Nacioanal, Tinto Roriz and Tinto Francesca seem to show the most potential for table wines. These may be among the most expensive Portuguese examples, but they are generally worth the money. Expect some firm tannin and deep colour here, with strong earthy and leathery components. If you want to try one that won’t break the bank, then check out the Ramos-Pinto Duas Quintas for about $16.
Just northwest of the Douro is the Vinho Verde, a region well known to Albertans for producing fresh and slightly prickly white wines. This region has been poorly represented in the past, but is now showing signs of recovery. The 2003 Quinta do Ameal ($16) is a great example of what this region is capable of – this is essential for a picnic.
Further south but still in the north are the neighbouring regions of Dao and Bairrada. In the past, Bairrada has been home to some underachieving and highly acidic wines made from the local grape, Baga. But today the region is enjoying more interesting results thanks to some diligent work by forward-thinking producers. The history of the Dao has not been tremendously exciting with most wine being made at the co-operative. These muddy and aggressively tannic wines were rarely worth tasting, but today the potential is starting to be realized. For a wonderful and inexpensive example from the Dao, try the Jose Marie da Fonseca Terras Altas ($11).
The two regions that dominate the south of Portugal are the Alentejo and the Estremadura. Good value wines are quickly emerging from both areas and many examples are finding their way to Alberta. Jose Maria da Fonseca is the undisputed champion of the south, providing top examples in every corner. Their benchmark wine, Periquita ($9), is still among the finest values around, but if you’re looking for something with a little more stuffing, then check out the 2003 Boa Memoria ($16), one of the most interesting wines to come out of the Alentejo in some time.
Whether you need a simple quaffer for the barbecue or a complex bottle for an elegant dinner, you can rarely go wrong with the undervalued and individualistic wines of Portugal. |
Copyright ©2005 FFWD. All rights reserved.