| What’s the best way to tell if a restaurant is serving authentic Chinese cuisine? One indication, of course, is whether the majority of its customers are Chinese. Others are the variety of aquatic species in the on-site fish tank and the presence of fresh meat hanging upside down on display. Having noted all of these features at the Sun Chiu Kee Restaurant (#6 - 1423 Centre St. N.W.), my two friends and I knew we were in for a treat.
Despite its cafeteria-style acoustics, Sun Chiu Kee has a warm, homey feel, likely due to two-toned orange walls and the flicker of a TV in one’s peripheral vision. The large windows are lined with comfortable booths and various square and round tables to accommodate any configuration of guests. At 6:30 p.m. we joined the steady stream of patrons who filled the restaurant.
Its skinned and plucked creatures had been shuffled backstage sometime in the afternoon, but we were still taken in by the fish tank. This was not the squeaky-clean tank of the dentist’s office, meant to decorate and relax. On the contrary, this watery purgatory was jammed with live creatures featured on the menu, such as crab, lobster and a gang of rowdies we didn’t catch the name of. We were informed that the lone mystery fish that sat by itself was a jellyfish, a common ingredient in Chinese food. Not at all the membranous, umbrella-like organism one might expect, this phallic sea bully looked like he deserved his "time out" in the corner of the tank.
The beverage list offers a wide selection of smoothies, homemade slushes, milkshakes and other beverages, from Hong Kong-style teas to Ovaltine or coconut milk. A few domestic and imported beers are available, but wine is not. We ordered a red bean, grass jelly and pineapple smoothie and, indeed, the presence of whole red beans was unmistakable. It’s one thing to sip beverages made from beans, but it’s quite another to find them whole in one’s beverage. Grass jelly is sweet and dark and nothing else. Our novice taste buds abandoned this in favour of a Tsing Tao beer.
We started with a double order of spring rolls ($4.25) of the usual sprouts, carrots, mushrooms and pork. These were fried to perfection and delicious. I was willing to continue with a third and fourth order, but my friends wanted to move on to a whole "live lobster." Great choice. At $26.95, with a selection of sauces (we opted for creamy butter sauce), this provided excellent value for the money.
Our server, Ming, was most helpful, explaining items and clarifying that the crispy chicken with garlic, chili and black beans ($11.95) was served on the bone. While the chicken wasn’t overly crispy, it was tender and flavourful. The assorted meat and vegetables with fried noodles ($9.95), meanwhile, offered a surprising variety, including octopus, tripe and scallop.
Many different whole fish dishes caught our attention as they breezed by us en route to other tables. The menu also boasts roasted duck and pig – tempting, but we were growing too full. Finally, we managed a few spoonfuls of warm almond tapioca, which was mild and creamy – a pleasant finish to our meal. When I return on the weekend, I’m going for item "G" on the breakfast menu: Pan-fried Rice Crepe with Dry Shrimp.
Overall, the food at Sun Chiu Kee is great, if not excellent, the portions are generous, the cost is reasonable and the atmosphere feels like one large, inviting kitchen. But don’t expect some McWesternized rendition of pineapple chicken balls or whatever pseudo-Chinese food some of us grew up on – this is the real thing. And thank God for that. I’m all for fashionable fusion foods, but sometimes it’s simply refreshing to enjoy food not too far removed from its natural state. That’s what you get at Sun Chiu Kee: a delightful return to wholesome and authentic Chinese cuisine. |
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