| In the early years of railroad travel, trains veered off-route, stopping briefly at small stations, platforms, or sidings, for passengers to eat, rest and freshen up during long journeys. Putting a modern slant on tradition, Art Central has recreated the feeling of the historic pit stop with The Siding Café (#111- 100 Seventh Ave. S.W.; phone 262-0282).
Located on the building’s main level and situated alongside the C-Train tracks on Seventh Avenue, The Siding Café is replete with a suspended chrome ceiling, swivel-chair seating at the kitchen counter and red leather booths redolent of luxury railcars. As well, a long granite-topped table that seats 24 runs along the spine of the restaurant, placing you elbow to elbow with other patrons. This seating plan makes for a fun, social meal, creating a lively buzz. Gracing the walls is a collection of black-and-white photographs depicting significant moments in Canada’s railway history, such as the Last Spike at Craigellachie, B.C.
In fact, once the LRT is up and running again along this strip, it’ll be possible to catch the train just beyond the restaurant’s street entrance.
The Siding Café is operated by Murrieta’s Group, led by Ron Salverda. Chef Wes Holtz, formerly of Murrieta’s and the Cornerstone Grill, has created a contemporary menu of casual fare. "It’s homestyle cooking, it’s comfort food. It’s a hug on a plate," says general manager Garth Brown. Order off the blackboard above the open kitchen or from your paper placemat. Breakfast is served all day, and lunch and supper are available from 11 a.m. until close.
There’s also a deli station of soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts for in-house or takeout. A popular choice is the smoked turkey club ($9.55), made with double smoked bacon, aged cheddar, cranberry and caramelized onion preserve and smoked turkey breast, served with salad and fries.
My lunch date ordered the eight-ounce burger ($9.05), a well-seasoned patty with grilled onions, basil mayo and Gruyère cheese ($1.50) on a whole-wheat Kaiser, served with fries and an organic green salad with a honey, apple-ginger dressing. I chose the vegetable garganelli ($10.45), with one of the best companions to pasta – artichokes – along with red peppers, onions and goat cheese in a rose sauce.
The servings are generous so it isn’t necessary to order starters with the mains. However, we wanted to try the soup of the day (cup, $2.95; bowl, $4.95), which was tomato and vegetables with a subtle, spicy kick. The whipped goat cheese, which is rolled in breadcrumbs, then lightly pan-fried, and the strawberry-rhubarb preserve, to be spread on brioche crostini ($9.05), is to die for.
The Siding Café is fully licensed and features a decent and affordable wine list; no bottle runs higher than $36. But their coolest beverage is the PEZ fruit juice ($2.48). It’s a 250 ml drinking pouch of natural fruit juice with a PEZ character atop the spout. "I want to bring ‘dine’ back to diner," says Brown, "so the PEZ drink and the Jones root-beer soda float give the restaurant that kind of flair."
Combining delicious food, a fun atmosphere and an innovative, retro diner-cum-Grand Central Station theme, the Siding Café is a great place to pause and reflect during a visit to the studios of Art Central. All aboard! |
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