| COUP: Successful act; feat of bravery; revolution; political statement.
Inspired by the phrase "coup d’état" that was spray-painted on the side of a building, Dalia Kohen, 27, and Tabitha Archer, 28, decided to name their vegetarian restaurant The Coup (924B — 17 Avenue, S.W.; phone 541-1041). Opening their first restaurant in November, and bringing something different to the city’s food scene, they felt the word accurately described what they’re doing.
Taking over the former Red Saffron space, the pair have fashioned a menu with an earthy, funky vibe. The recipes are their own and are influenced by international travel and time spent in B.C.’s interior and west coast. The response has been amazing; so much so that there’s often a lineup. A comfy couch accommodates those waiting for a table in the 32-seat restaurant.
For those who’ve long envisioned sushi made with brown rice, The Coup presents pseudo sushi ($4.50). The six rolls of organic brown rice, red pepper, green onion, carrots, cucumber and a sliver of fresh mango or pear, depending on what’s seasonal, are fun, tasty and make traditional cucumber rolls seem boring.
If it’s the round bun that makes a burger a burger then The Coup’s version is more of a sandwich ($13). The semantics of bread shapes aside, between its toasted flatbread frames are grilled balsamic portobello mushrooms, roasted peppers, caramelized onions and a maple Dijon sauce, with lettuce and tomato toppings. The mushrooms and Dijon mustard are a great combination. On the side, choose from the organic green salad, soup of the day or baked rosemary yam fries. The yam fries were a little limp but the dipping sauce of tahini-miso gravy was so good it was drinkable.
The falafel quesadilla ($9.50) – what a neat idea! The sprouted tortilla is filled with a harmonious blend of flattened falafel balls, goat feta (all cheeses are rennet-free), hummus, olives, pickles, red cabbage, banana peppers and carrots, though no ingredient sings more loudly than another. The accompanying organic green salad was light and fresh, with sunflower sprouts, shredded carrots, beets and seeds.
For dessert, we shared a generous slice of amaretto white chocolate cheesecake ($6) that disappeared quickly. Archer is the restaurant’s "dessert girl" and also makes tofu mousse, vegan apple pie and chocolate fondue. The Coup is licensed and features a South American pisco sour, lychee martini and several organic wines.
On my next visit, I’d like to try the field trip ($14), a cashew carrot pâté with lentil lime salad, organic greens, flat bread and lavash (sesame, cracker bread), and your choice of three of the following dips: sun-dried tomato hummus, aji (Chilean salsa), toasted almond and eggplant, sesame yam, curried squash or dahl. And, for lunch, I’ll order the paninni with grilled tofu, caramelized onion, tomatoes and toasted pumpkin pesto with soup or salad ($9).
The Coup reminds me of Toronto’s Juice for Life. While you can eat vegetarian food at some of Calgary’s health food stores or at some Chinese and Indian restaurants, there is nothing else quite like The Coup here. The restaurant’s owners are environmentally conscious; Kohen and Archer compost and recycle everything. They also support local and organic food producers.
Says Archer: "Leaving as few footprints as we possibly can is so important to us. We’re just trying to set that kind of example."
The Coup is open Tuesday to Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch, and then from 5 p.m. "until the last person leaves."
PARTING WORDS
With a new year upon us, let us honour the fallen of 2004. D.D.’s Delectable Delights – condo-in-the-making. Mescalero’s – slated to be a condo. See the pattern. Save The Mercury from a similar fate. |
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