| Too many people perceive Napa Valley as the kind of place only rich people go. And, while there is no shortage of money being splashed around the valley by egomaniac millionaires, there is still plenty to do for those of us with more humbly armed wallets.
The valley offers unmatched beauty for hikers, incredible food at every price point and the opportunity to immerse oneself in all things wine. Leave the spas, limo tours and balloon rides to the rich; I’ll show you how to live it up in Napa, and the good people at Visa won’t even know you left town.
The journey from Calgary to Napa Valley is quick and painless; flights from West Jet can be amazingly value-priced, so look out for the deals. The closest major city, San Francisco, is only an hour from the valley and provides you with an instant sense that you have arrived somewhere special. This bustling hub is about as close to a European city as you will find in North America. The energy you feel just walking down the street can give you goose bumps. So, leave a little time on either end of your trip to enjoy some of its fabulous neighbourhood cafés and restaurants. Food here is an art form that has been elevated to the highest standards anywhere – don’t miss out. The Zagat Guide can give you excellent info on great places that will fit your budget.
The drive to the valley is short and pretty (assuming you don’t try to go on Memorial Day weekend), and you can feel the air slowly warming as you wind your way up toward the valley’s mouth. You know you’re headed in the right direction as vineyards start to appear, sporadically at first and then, as you enter the valley itself, dominating the entire landscape. Two small mountain ranges flank the valley, providing a touch of wilderness in an otherwise pristine agricultural setting.
Life here is a little slower, and trying to accomplish too much on your trip will only defeat the whole point of being in the valley, so take it slow, linger over coffee and always order dessert after lunch.
Finding a cheap place to stay in Napa is crucial to controlling your budget. Most accommodations are frighteningly expensive. However, nestled just outside one of Napa’s most charming towns, St. Helena, the El Bonita Motel (elbonita.com) provides the ideal location from which to explore the valley and rooms start from around $90 US.
Since I moved away from Napa in 1997, an amazing number of restaurants have opened their doors, but a recent trip allowed me to catch up and offer some great new suggestions for fabulous lunches and dinners.
The influence of Latino culture is evident all over California, and Napa is no exception. Don’t miss the opportunity to indulge in authentic cuisine, such as the classic burritos offered at Via Corona located on the main street in St. Helena. For less than $10 you can order a chicken, beef or brain burrito – just slightly smaller than your head — plus a cold local beer, and sit on the patio watching the world go by as your body tries to digest 3000 calories of fat and protein. Another great lunch spot is the well-known Taylor’s Refresher just a few blocks up the same main road. Here one can lunch on great burgers or fabulous fish tacos and suck back a draft, all purchased from the retro trailer-turned-kitchen. Situated just behind are several picnic tables for you to kick back and enjoy the sun. If you really want to get away from the crowds, grab a picnic lunch and a bottle of wine from Oakville Grocery, across from Mondavi, and head up Mount St. Helena for a view of the valley you won’t soon forget.
For dinner there is no shortage of great and reasonably priced bistros. The
one-street town of Yountville offers many excellent spots that exemplify the use of local ingredients in classic cooking. First is Bouchon (owned by Thomas Keller of French Laundry fame), where you can expect all the bistro classics: steak frites, poulet roti, baguette sandwiches and amazing soups and salads. Service is quick and professional and the food is all inexpensive. Other great options on the same street include Bistro Jeanty and Pere Jeanty. The town of Napa is also fun to explore and has my favourite cheap eats at Angele (540 Main Street Napa 707-252-8115). Here you sit on the water in an old boathouse, dining on classic bistro dishes and ordering from a fantastic and well-priced wine list.
And just to make sure you get a firm grasp on the whole wine gig, don’t miss Copia (1-888-51-COPIA) in the town of Napa. This is the centre for American wine, food and the arts and it delivers a whole day of entertainment between the exhibits, tastings, classes and amazing displays.
If you’re going for just a couple of days I would recommend hitting no more than two wineries per day. The object is not to see as many wineries as possible but to enjoy yourself at each one. My recommendations would be Chappellet (800-494-6379) for the views and great wine, Domaine Chandon (707-944-2280) for bubbles and a relaxing time, and Beringer (707-963-7115) to see an old classic and bigger operation – besides, it’s close to your motel. Have fun. |
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