| My trip to Washington wine country got off to, let’s say, a shaky start.
Turbulence was knocking around our noisy little twin-prop plane like a beach ball in a hurricane. Yet, shockingly, the determined stewardess persevered with drink service, delivering to me my first of what would be many tastes of Washington wine. But each attempt at bringing the glass to my lips was thwarted by the plane’s bumps and drops, landing more of it on my lap than in my mouth. My enjoyment was further hindered by the muumuu-clad Mrs. Roper look-alike sitting in front of me, drenched in perfume.
I finally gave up. Peering through my now-watering eyes, I watched the stewardess as she battled up and down the aisle clutching seat backs for balance, while attempting to pour drinks for her thirsty guests. She had become an unwitting competitor in a mile-high game of beer hunter as she frantically pulled beer after beer, searching for one that had not been afflicted by the turbulence. But the result was always the same – as each beer was opened its foamy contents were released in a violent spray, soaking any passengers unlucky enough to be within range of the blast. Five minutes after drink service finished, the ride turned perfectly smooth.
After a second flight in a yet smaller plane, I arrived in Pasco, home base for the four-day adventure into the heart of Washington wine country. Pasco was chosen, not for its beauty, but for its location, being best suited for travel to growing regions situated both east and west. In fact, our repeated attempts to visit downtown Pasco were met with much resistance and alarm from tour organizers. After having finally made it to the middle of town, I realized it was only my safety they had in mind.
The wine growing regions of Washington tend to be quite spread out, leaving plenty of time on the bus to view the Washington landscape. It’s one that can be pretty but is often ruined by the scars of industrial U.S.A. – the inevitable strip mall, golden arches and telltale twin smoke stacks of the local plutonium industry. Grapes here are only a secondary crop, still struggling for recognition among the vast fields of wheat and beans.
My previous experiences with Washington wines had been good. I knew they had flagship wineries such as Woodward Canyon, Leonetti, Quilceda Creek and L’Ecole No. 41, which were all world class. What I was searching for was the underbelly – new, small wineries turning out fantastic juice that was yet to be discovered.
There are 270 wineries operating in Washington today with more than 300 individual growers supplying them grapes. This situation means most wineries buy at least some, if not all, of the grapes they use and very few have much control over their growing. The majority of wineries here are small with the huge Stimson Lane group controlling most of the state’s production.
In the past, Washington has shown an ability to produce world-class reds and varietally correct if uninspired whites. The region is essentially a desert with almost exclusively sandy soils; irrigation is key here and seems to be the main concern on the minds of most growers. The growing season starts a little late, but catches up with long days of sunshine and what can be stifling heat at the end of summer. These conditions are challenging – retaining acidity and preventing sunburnt fruit are two of the main problems – but the abundance of very young vines is still a huge factor limiting the overall quality.
With good wind exposure and little worry of disease, Washington does provide a suitable area for the growing of fine wine grapes. The last remaining hurdle will be to raise the overall quality of the wines and create an identifiable image for worldwide consumers.
It seemed at first that Washington was content to hang its hat on Bordeaux varietals – Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, etc. – but recently many have had the urge to experiment outside this original scope. We saw everything from sangiovese to Syrah, mourvèdre, Dolcetto, Malbec, Nebbiolo and even such rarities as Tinta Cão. Although some experimentation is important, there needs to be a focused effort here to produce something the world can relate to. Washington is a region struggling for an identity and by introducing dozens of new varieties the situation is only further complicated. Very few wines tasted from these new varieties proved to be anything more than mildly interesting. Although Syrah has some potential here, only a small percentage of producers seem to have a handle on it so far.
Walla Walla remains the highlight of Washington wine country, with most of the best producers calling it home. The town is pretty with some great places to eat, including Grapefields Wine Bar and the newly restored Marcus Whitman Hotel, which also offers a great base from which to explore.
Recommended Washington producers whose wines are available in Calgary include Canoe Ridge, L’Ecole No. 41, Woodward Canyon, Leonetti and Abeja – a great new winery from Walla Walla specializing in Cabernet and Chardonnay. The wine maker is John Abbott, formerly of Canoe Ridge. |
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