| Driving through France’s southern Rhone valley, it’s hard not to be impressed by the abundant supply of gnarled old vines that dominate the rugged landscape. And when you reach Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the iron-rich red soils and smartly polished galets (stones) instantly capture your imagination, as you marvel at the fine wine tradition that has made this area so renowned. Here the tangled vines reach out of the earth like ancient hands sent to deliver a message of special importance, one that would be heard the world over and turn tiny Châteauneuf-du-Pape into a wine Mecca, visited by tens of thousands of admirers each year.
Grape growing is not new to Châteauneuf; the Romans knew it as a special place for viticulture and the bishops of Avignon continued their traditions through the 12th century. Châteauneuf received its now famous name after a summer castle was erected here for Pope John XXII in 1333 as a reprieve from the oppressive summer heat of Avignon.
Châteauneuf has continually enjoyed much fame and notoriety, a good deal of it stemming from the fact that it was the first region in France to gain official protection from fraud and misrepresentation for its wines. The national system of Appellation Controllées was born here in 1923, when the Baron Le Roy of Château Fortia decreed that the land for Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s vineyards would be limited to only the most suitable soils. Those that would support both lavender and thyme were deemed most appropriate. Also strictly regulated were the grapes permitted, the training of the vines, vinification techniques and strength of the wines, to help stabilize and improve the quality of wines bearing the Châteauneuf crest. Later, the rest of France would follow by implementing similar laws.
Today Châteauneuf remains in good standing, crafting some excellent wines of real distinction and merit. But sadly, there still exists a faction of parasites riding on the backs of producers who have worked tirelessly to create the fine image the region enjoys today. Châteauneuf’s immense size (over 3,200 hectares) is both its greatest asset and Achilles heel. The large production means that the demand of the world markets can be met, but it makes effective quality control an impossible task. Too much poor-quality fruit is still making its way into the fermenting vats of lackadaisical co-operatives. And each year thousands of bottles of insipid, limp and disappointing wine leaves France bearing the familiar Châteauneuf moniker. That being said, the overall quality of the region has risen sharply in the past decade and recent vintages, such as 1998, 2000 and 2001 have brought considerable notoriety.
It’s difficult to pin down the style of Châteauneuf. With over 225 producers and a cocktail of 13 different grapes permitted in the mix, styles can change drastically from one producer to the next. The most classic wines tend to be rich and heady with a slightly rustic charm; aromas of cedar, earth and smoke are all hallmarks of fine Châteauneuf. But now one can find cuvées laden with oak-infused Syrah, mimicking the sleek wines of the northern Rhone more than the generous Grenache-based wines we are used to seeing from the south.
But styles aside, the move in Châteauneuf has been decidedly in the direction of quality. The best producers are making wines that will rival any in France and are capable of aging gracefully for over two decades.
Prices have remained relatively stable, although recent vintages have seen some sharp rises, especially with the new "prestige" bottlings so popular among Châteauneuf’s elite wineries. You can expect to pay between $35 and $65 for a good example, with top cuvées running up to a couple of hundred bucks a pop. But the good news is, with a little careful selection, you can still get a lot of wine for your money.
The selection in Alberta is tremendous with almost every top producer available. Some solid choices include: 2001 Château Beaucastel ($65), 2000 Vieux Télégraphe ($50), 2001 Vieux Donjon ($47) and 2000 Château la Nerthe ($48). If all this seems a little dear for everyday drinking, you can look to some of the second labels or Côtes du Rhônes released by the very same houses. One great buy is the 2001 Pigoulet ($17) from Vieux Télégraphe – a spicy and charming wine revealing much of the style of Châteauneuf without the big price tag. Also a great buy are the Perrin wines of Château Beaucastel, which makes great Côtes du Rhône ($14) as well as wines from neighbouring villages Vacqueyras ($20) and Gigondas ($30).
If you do decide to travel to Châteauneuf to take in the warm sun and charming wines, don’t expect a guided tour of the pope’s old crib. In 1944, a few overzealous German soldiers, who were using the castle for an ammunitions dump, decided to leave their mark before retreating to Germany and blew the whole thing sky-high. The ruins of the castle remain atop the hill but provide little protection from the relentless mistral, which constantly whips through its now-exposed cavity. |
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