| You’d think that I’d have visited The Living Room before (514 - 17th Ave. S.W., phone 228-9830), given that this is now my third year reviewing restaurants for Fast Forward and this particular one has a spectacular reputation. But, sadly, my predecessor in this space reviewed it just before she hung up her keyboard, and there were other places to try.
But recently it seemed to me that The Living Room was finally due for another review, especially when I went to book a table on Wednesday for Saturday night and the place was almost fully booked. What had I been missing? Well, in summary, I’d been missing a vibrant scene, excellent food and attentive service – in other words, quite a lot.
The Living Room’s management has done as much with the restaurant’s oddly configured space as possible. There are two small rooms, each jammed with tables, and between them is the main room, with a couch and loveseat where you can eat, a long bar, and an elevated 12-seat table with stools. There is a disparity in table quality; if you’re seated in one of the smaller rooms, you’re packed in there and it is loud. Given the choice, I’d probably ask to sit at the bar or at one of the window tables.
The room is sleek, but has a relaxed feel when it’s full of customers, and this urbanity comes through in the food. Chef Desmond Johnston has a knack for updating the classics, infusing their tastes with Asian or North African influences, for example, but generally he lets the ingredients speak for themselves.
Therefore, the oysters on the half shell ($2.50 each, which means a pricey $30 per dozen) are tiny and perfect, and the mignonette dressing they’re served with doesn’t overpower the saltiness. They’re as nice as any oysters I’ve had in Calgary. The other appetizers, which the four of us shared, include the ceviche of the day, which on our visit was raw tuna diced and seasoned with lemon, and served with fresh herbs ($9); the decadent tiger prawn and mascarpone ravioli ($14), which are also lemony, but have a hint of truffle oil; the mixed greens, served with a lip-smacking soy vinaigrette ($6), and the chilled seafood sampler ($12), containing squid, snow crab salad and tuna tartar. The squid is the star of the show, with a gingery undertone and perfect tenderness.
The main courses are intended for sharing. There are several that are built for two, including a whole poached lobster ($90) and a double-cut prime rib ($70). We settled on one of these interactive dishes, the bouillabaisse ($34), and it was very well turned out, containing salmon, halibut and mussels, and a large lump of rouille, the Provençal red pepper mayonnaise – bouillabaisse’s traditional accompaniment. I wonder if it’s difficult here in Calgary to make bouillabaisse properly, given that it’s supposed to contain a multitude of different fish, such as red mullet, for example, and local chefs can be stymied by their suppliers. Nevertheless, this bouillabaisse was fragrant and warming – a blast of Cannes in Calgary.
The gnocchi ($18) was tossed with a sage-cashew pesto (traditional pesto contains basil and pine nuts) and this offered a rich, autumn flavour to the dish. Gnocchi can be heavy, but these were tender and light. The highlight, though, was the grilled halibut special ($26); it came served on a bed of bitter greens, and was beautifully cooked and tender.
The wine list at The Living Room is long and eclectic (you can’t take your own wine), and there are some gems to be found – 1999 Chalone Pinot Blanc was beautiful with the halibut, and was a bargain at $70.
The Living Room isn’t cheap, for sure, but it offers pretty good value. You get to eat well-prepared and interesting food, the opportunity for people watching is first-rate, and the staff is pleasant and knowledgeable. What else could one ask for?
A CORRECTION:
Contrary to what you read here in the March 25 - March 31 issue, Blackfoot Farmers’ Market has not permanently closed, but will open for the summer season on June 1. Fast Forward apologizes for the error. |
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