Thursday, December 18, 2003
Calgary's News & Entertainment Weekly
FFWD Weekly
BOOZE
by Kevin McLean
Santa’s little wine helper
Cheap holiday cheer for the broke, busted and just plain out of cash
The holidays are upon you; your days of finding a good parking spot are over and your spare time will now be spent waiting in lines instead of the usual recreational lounging. Extra money (if there was any) will now be delegated to appeasing those on your gift list and any thought of an impromptu dinner out or other personal indulgence is a distant dream. Now, as you stare down into the barren reaches of your wallet, you realize that the most essential of seasonal provisions has not yet been secured – the holiday hooch!

Don’t panic. Even though the malls have drained the last of your cash, it’s still possible to acquire some suitable cheer to warm your spirit over the holiday stretch – it just means making some carefully calculated choices.

So here it is, your ultimate guide to buying booze for the holidays – everything from the cheap whites that keep your granny smiling to precious ports for sharing with rarely seen relations. Assembling the perfect holiday selection is tricky. You’ll need some good wine for those quiet moments, but you’ll also need some generic hooch to quell the thirst of your greasy-elbowed relatives. Either way, the holidays demand you be well armed, so if you want to pack your rack with the best bottles for the best deal, then you’re going to need a little help.

First and foremost, you’re going to require some wine to match all that food you’ll be scarfing back over the next few weeks. And please don’t forget wine comes in three colors: red, white and rosé – the last is a holiday must to balance the inevitable dryness of the holiday turkey. For white wine, stick to simple, fresh, unoaked versions with lively, crisp acidity. From Australia the Scrubby Rise White ($13.50) is a solid choice; the blend of Sémillon, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc delivers ripe, aromatic fruit on a crisp, refreshing palate, sure to quell the grumpiest uncle or snootiest aunt. The proud rooster of France offers us Le Poule Blanche – a delicious white for only $11.50 with fresh fruit character on a soft, supple palate. Also from France, there’s the reliable workhorse wine: Domaine Molines Sauvignon Viognier ($13.95), a tipple that always hits the spot. This quaffable little number has a bright stone fruit nose followed by a soft, generous mouth feel. A couple of bottles of Spain’s Protocolo White ($9.95) would probably be a good idea for the table – when cash is tight and you need to fend off thirsty guests, few wines can top this tasty treat.

Now that the whites are out of the way, it’s time to put a little red in your cheeks. Let’s face it, it’s cold outside so no one wants soft, limpid reds lacking the crucial warming factor. Portugal has an endless supply of great value and with José Maria da Fonseca it’s really hard to go wrong. My personal choice for the season is the Vinya ($13.95)the enticing nose of crushed raspberry accompanies a firm, dusty palate and ripe, chewy tannins. From neighboring Spain comes the incomparable Dominio de Eguren Codice ($11.95). Aromas of wild strawberry and cocoa are preserved in a surprisingly rich and full red for under 12 bucks.

From another hotbed of good value, Southern Italy, comes Canaletto Primitivo ($13.50). This generous young red delivers layers of plum and raisin with a ripe but focused finish. If you’re lucky enough to live downtown near The Wine Shop on 17th Avenue S.W., then you may be familiar with my next pick, Parrina Rosso ($14.45). This terrific Tuscan producer makes phenomenal wines in a region not typically noted for value. For rosé, check out the Nekeas ($13.95) – it’s good enough to become a family tradition.

Although wine is a crucial component, there are a few other necessary libations to ensure a warm and joyous holiday season. For great port check out the Noval 97 LBV in the 375 ml bottles ($14.95). This is a terrific heart-warming nip in a conveniently-sized package.

The hard stuff can get expensive but I have two suggestions that deliver amazing value. The first is Red Breast Irish Whisky ($31.95). If you can’t splurge on a good Scottish single malt, then pick up a bottle of this lovely pot-stilled Irish version. I consider cognac to be essential for holiday cheer, but rarely do I have the resources for the top stuff. Luckily for me, there is Château Montifaud, a family-run distillery that makes terrific cognac for a fraction of the cost of the mainstream brands. Try the basic V.S. ($38) and enjoy great cognac without the killer price.

So there you have it: no cash – no problem. All the cheer you need for the season. And remember: friends don’t let friends drink bad wine – especially during the holidays.

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