| The cab pulled up to the restaurant and I jumped out, hurrying to the other side to open the door for my wife. As we approached the front door I stepped forward and opened it for her, but as she walked in to greet the hostess, I quickly darted around to the side of the building. Tucked away under my arm, in a discreet bag, were two dusty old bottles I had been saving for a special occasion – my anniversary.
So while my wife found our table, I skulked away to the kitchen entrance, clutching the contraband vino. As previously arranged, I was greeted there by the restaurant’s sommelier, a fellow dissident and sympathizer of the underground wine movement. I calmly handed over the bag and its contents and made my way back around the building to our table, where my wife was already quietly enjoying a glass of champagne. Although she is more or less used to this routine, I could tell she was growing tired of my clandestine actions. But how else could I enjoy these fabulous wines, which I had been harbouring in my basement for years, alongside the wonderful food from my favourite restaurant?
Until October 27, I couldn’t – not legally, anyways – but all that has finally changed. Albertans are now allowed to bring bottles of wine purchased from a retail shop into participating restaurants and to consume them over the course of a meal. And if you can’t quite get through that bottle over dinner, the server can pop the cork back in the bottle, bag it up and send it home with you to enjoy at a later time. It’s all part of a new government plan allowing consumers more choice and flexibility while consuming wine in restaurants.
The initiative took a lot of Albertans by surprise, including several of Calgary’s most active and influential restaurateurs. And as the dust settles on these new laws, most establishments are still unsure which side of the fence they will land on.
The comments from the restaurateurs I spoke with were numerous and varied. Wine sales are the most lucrative aspect of many of these businesses and some owners are concerned their financial viability may be compromised if they allow patrons to bring their own wine – many of these restaurants have invested significant funds in creating extensive lists and want to see a return on their investment. However, other restaurants that had little interest in wine before see this as an opportunity to attract wine-savvy customers into their premises without the expense of high inventories –such restaurants attract lineups in Montreal.
But the main complaint I kept hearing over and over was about the lack of dialogue between the government and those the legislation will most affect: people working in the restaurant industry. Their concerns – ranging from lost revenue for their businesses to the effect smaller bills will have on tips and, as a result, the quality of servers they can attract – have not been properly addressed.
On the other hand, there are also potential benefits for those who want to work with this system. The restaurants will be able to set the price for corkage, so for high-end restaurants, a price of about $20 will ensure people are not taking advantage of the situation. And I see nothing in the guidelines to prevent restaurants from setting their own policy on when and how they will deal with corkage. For instance, if an establishment only wants to allow customers to bring wine on certain nights and only on bottles not currently available on the wine list, they should have that ability. And the new rules allowing patrons to take home partially consumed bottles means consumers are no longer obligated to finish what they buy – which can only lead to greater sales. If used intelligently, this new system could be a great marketing tool and help restaurants expose themselves to a variety of new customers.
For those restaurants that have not had the resources for a proper wine list or simply did not make the effort, this is great news. In these more modest places, we should see smaller corkage fees (in the $7 range), and this is where the real advantage of the new system lies.
With the new laws still in their infancy, and only a handful of noteworthy participants, it is still unclear what effect the laws will have on our thriving restaurant scene. My feeling (which has been supported by recent polls) is that few consumers will take advantage of the opportunity. It requires a little more organization than a lot of people have time for, and as some diners I spoke with commented, "Bringing wine before you know what you are going to eat is a pretty difficult task." While the concerns I have heard from many restaurant owners are valid, I still believe most consumers will turn to the list when they want to drink wine, especially if the list is well constructed and fairly priced.
But if you do decide that bringing your own is the way for you, make sure to check with the restaurant to ensure they allow it. After all, it is optional and restaurants that wish to participate have to get special amendments made to their licences first.
Oh yes, and to all you home wine makers out there, no, you can’t bring a bottle of this month’s house special – the rules only apply to commercially produced wines. |
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