| This column is the latest in Fast Forward’s occasional and deeply important series on neighbourhood Greek-style pizza places.
First we looked at Galliano's in Mayland Heights (now under new ownership), then the eternal Karouzo's on 4th St. N.W., and now we explore the Italianate Bella Roma (Lakeview Shopping Plaza at 6449 Crowchild Trail S.W., phone 242-0441).
Bella Roma has all the hallmarks of a North American Italian restaurant – plaster busts of Roman gods or characters from the Bible peer down their white noses at diners, contrasting a bit discordantly with the ’80s-style upholstery. Lots of families with large platters fill the tables, as well as a few old people who always order the same thing. A dedicated extended family runs the joint. I love it, but non-smokers beware: although the restaurant is non-smoking, it's tobacco road next door in the bar.
While Bella Roma may be Italian-themed in décor, it's Greek all the way. The local vampire community has to keep at least a kilometre away from the Caesar salad ($4.25/$6.75) and its fresh, crisp, chopped romaine with a crazy garlicky homemade dressing. This ain't no hoity-toity Caesar made tableside with a coddled egg – it's just lettuce, croutons, dressing and cheese – but this is a good version. One quibble: there's too much stalk in some of the lettuce, and while it's economical to use the whole head, the salad would be better without the bitter white parts near the root.
The pizza is as you'd expect, with a thick crust and lots of toppings, but we found it surprisingly light and not greasy. The salami, mushroom and anchovy pizza (a medium was $12.95 plus $2 for the anchovies) was excellent, even though the salami tasted a lot like pepperoni to me – not too much evil oil-producing cheese, lots of fresh toppings and a light crust. Yum.
Our kids, who are not big pizza fans, loved the Hawaiian (a small was $8), partially because it was made with back bacon as opposed to ham, and partially because the crust wasn't overcooked. Next time at Bella Roma, though, it will be time for the Mina's special: spinach, onions, tomatoes, black olives, feta – a real Popeye.
The reason to go to Bella Roma is the pizza, but that's not to say that the rest of the food is a throw-in –the special was cod loin on the night we were there, and the steak sandwich comes highly recommended.
We found the beef souvlaki ($12.55) with rice, Greek salad and garlic toast, to be a bit tough (the chicken would have been a better choice), but the accompanying Greek salad had heaps of feta, good-tasting tomatoes, and real olives from a deli, not a can. The calamari was pre-packaged, but had homemade tzatziki for dipping – you can tell because the yogurt is so tangy.
On the right sort of night, Bella Roma has just what you need: filling pizza with intense flavours, and friendly and experienced service. On the way back from skiing this winter, it'll be worth a little detour.
RANDOM NOTES
· Also in the Lakeview Shopping Plaza are two worthwhile things to know about. Lakeview Bakery, with its focus on allergy-free bread, is a destination for the gluten- or wheat-conscious, and the bread is good to boot. As well, there is a 24-hour IGA. Do you need Comet at 4 a.m.? How about Count Chocula? This is the place.
· Right now, Chongo's at the Crossroads Market has the most wonderful tree-ripened nectarines. They're firm, tangy and sweet, and as good a piece of fruit as I've ever eaten.
· Piq Niq, the fantastic downtown bistro on 1st Street S.W. between 8th and 9th Avenues, has been completely remodelled – it’s now a sleek urban restaurant with taupe and black accents, new furniture and an expanded bar. This is a wonderful place for a serene lunch. |
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