| Times have changed. That’s what I was thinking while driving through the Okanagan Valley on my recent mission to sample some of the local juice.
Admittedly, it had been a while since my last tour of B.C.’s finest wineries. In the past there had been more to fear in the Okanagan than just Ogopogo – the prospect of being ambushed by a nonchalant vintner peddling old-vine chancellor port or being tricked into consuming some tainted verdelet was always a threat.
But as I said, things have changed and I felt it was time to make the pilgrimage. A trip to the Okanagan Valley is generally a lot of fun and the scenery is breathtaking (when you can catch a glimpse of it around all the real estate and mini golf billboards), but the purpose of this quest was to taste wine. I wanted to discover who’s pumping out the best juice, see what the new guys are up to and hopefully uncover a few good spots for lunch.
I started at what has become the focal point of the Okanagan Valley, the famed Mission Hill Winery. This is an impressive landmark – the expansive grounds boast an amphitheatre, a 12-storey bell tower, a labyrinth of underground cellars and a remarkable collection of European relics and works of art, including a Chagall tapestry. And, of coarse, there’s also an extensive tasting and retail room where you can pick up some wine and your all-important souvenir t-shirt.
Tours here run continually in the summer and are well worth the time. As for the wines, they have improved significantly since I first tried them, and as the vines continue to age, the wines will undoubtedly gain more complexity and interest. Mission Hill seems very serious about attaining their goal as an internationally recognized quality winery – I believe it has the potential to be one of Canada’s best. A tasting of the latest vintage of their flagship wine, Oculus, revealed a serious commitment to quality.
As far as the food is concerned, Mission Hill is a great place to chow down – lunches are served daily on the panoramic Terrace Bistro, and with the recent addition of Chef Michael Allemeier (a sad loss for Calgarians), the special events cuisine will be second to none.
Another great stop in the same neighbourhood is Quail’s Gate. This medium-sized winery produces well-made, delicious wines that are best enjoyed with lunch on their Old Vines Patio. This patio remains one of the best places for lunch in the whole valley, providing fresh, well-thought-out cuisine in a spectacular setting.
So far I had hit two spots and no one had tried to jam any labrusca down my throat, so I thought things were going pretty well I thought. Next we headed further south to check out Okanagan Falls. Here Blue Mountain has been making quality vinifera wines since 1991. This is an impressive family-run operation with striking vineyards that produce some of Canada’s best pinot noir. Make sure to call ahead as visits are by appointment only. Also in the Okanagan Falls area are Stag’s Hollow and Blasted Church, both up-and-comers with potential to do impressive things.
Located on the far side of the lake is beautiful Naramata – you’ll have to travel a little to get there, but the effort will be rewarded. Some of B.C.’s finest young wineries are clustered here and definitely deserve a look. Among the most interesting are La Frenz and tiny Poplar Grove.
When travelling through the Okanagan Valley there are a few things you should keep in mind to maximize your experience. For starters, make appointments. Small wineries appreciate knowing about your arrival and will be better able to accommodate you if you give them the heads up. Second, don’t try to see more than three producers in a day – spend some time at each place, ask questions and, if they offer lunch, stay. The best food in the valley is served at the wineries. And third, stick to the beaten path. Although the industry has come a long way, there are still some wineries pumping out gallons of bacterial laden baco noir or vile verdelet, just waiting for the unsuspecting tourist.
When choosing where to go, I would recommend any of the following (based on the quality of the wines): Sandhill in Kelowna (250-762-9144); Blasted Church (250-497-1125) and Blue Mountain (250-497-8244) in Okanagan Falls; Black Hills (250-498-0666) and Burrowing Owl 250-498-0620) in Oliver; and La Frenz, (250-494-7210) and Poplar Grove (250-492-4575) in Naramata. For some good information and helpful maps and guides check out bcwine.com, or for info on one of the many wine festivals, check out owfs.com. Happy tasting! |
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