| The idea of biodynamic viticulture is not a new one, but there is a whole new generation of winemakers embracing the philosophy.
Rudolf Steiner introduced the principles of biodynamics in the 1920s in his book Spiritual Foundations for the Renewal of Agriculture. At that time, he was lecturing to farmers in East Germany who were facing depleted crops, poor quality soils and unhealthy livestock – all of which occurred shortly after agro-chemicals had been introduced in mass quantities. Steiner believed the use of chemical pesticides and herbicides had disturbed the balance of nature, leading to the disease and poor production the farmers were facing.
Years later, these very same observations were made in Burgundy, where vignerons (winemakers) had been working the same land for thousands of years – in the latter decades they had employed harsh chemicals, leaving the land dead and unusable. It became clear that the use of chemicals was not viable for the long term and that alternate means would need to be sought.
Steiner’s philosophy goes far beyond mere organic farming – he believed all things are connected, so there needed to be a broader view when considering the health of plants and soils. Through careful observation, he noted that the moon, sun, stars and seasons all play a fundamental role in the health of plant life. As a result, he developed a system of holistic farming with the ultimate goal of more sustainable plant life and healthy, natural environments.
Although this system is very comprehensive and tremendously complex, there are basic principles that apply to growing grapes. Biodynamics is based on observations of our environment and focuses on creating balance and encouraging natural vitality in the soil and vine. The goal is to look at plants in the context of the whole universe, taking into account rhythms of the earth, moon, sun and stars. These rhythms are then interpreted and used as guidelines for vineyard activity. For example, new planting would be conducted on "root days" when the new moon causes the earth’s gravitational rhythms to pull downwards, guiding the roots deeper into the earth. On "leaf days" the spraying of special organic preparations would be carried out, while picking would be done only on "fruit days" when the vitality of the plant is focused in the fruit.
This may seem a little far-fetched to the casual observer or traditional grape grower, but practitioners swear by the system and believe it promotes healthier vines and better fruit.
For the grape grower, the most profound effect of biodynamics is the increased sense of terroir. By encouraging more microbiological diversity in the soil, and not simply sterilizing it as others do, the grower creates a stable humus and a balanced microclimate where the vine can thrive. By promoting and using natural yeasts, producers can add a unique signature to their wines, bringing about a more profound sense of place. By encouraging stronger, deeper roots, more minerals can be realized in the wines as nutrients are brought back to the plant through the extensive root network. The theory here is that the more integrated the vine becomes with its environment, the more the resulting wine will be an expression of that particular place.
Besides avoiding synthetic chemicals and all forms of herbicide and pesticide, the biodynamic vigneron goes much further – and this is where it gets a little squirrelly for conventional farmers. Special composts are made from several types of manure, which are mixed together and buried in the soil for up to six months. From these various composts, special preparations are made using such things as silica, yarrow, chamomile, nettle, oak bark, dandelion and horsetail. The preparations – which are very much at the heart of biodynamic farming – are applied back the roots, soils and leaves to help heal and balance the vines. They are all designed to stimulate, regulate and enhance the life forces of the vineyard.
Rather than maintaining a monoculture, the biodynamic producer also encourages many different crops, each one with a specific purpose – growing olive trees, vegetable gardens and fruit trees as well as vines allows the habitat to become more balanced, making the system more sustainable and encouraging beneficial predators and more diverse life forms. Animals are also incorporated into the system, providing free manure and controlling the growth of cover crops.
Buying into the program is still a leap of faith most vignerons are not willing to make, but the results from producers like Dominique Lafon, Anne-Claude Leflaive, Domaine Leroy and, more recently, Mike Benziger in Sonoma are tough to argue with.
Whether you believe in it or not, it does keep the vigneron in the vineyard making observations and spending time with the fruit, which always leads to better wine. Sure, they might stuff the odd cow skull full of dung and bury it in the ground from time to time, but it’s not exactly witchcraft. |
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