| "Celebrate life" is the key message for Spring 2003. The political climate is one of uncertainty and hostility, so to lift our spirits, many designers referenced the best of times, such as the sophisticated styling of the ’50s, the vivid colours and mod innovation of the ’60s, and the spirit of self-confidence of the ’80s.
The first step designers took in brightening spring was shedding the dark, sombre shades of winter to reveal a spectrum of cheerful, tropical colours. Tangerine, pink grapefruit, lemon, lime, berry and a splash of ultramarine blue accented with crisp whites and sandy neutrals will quench our thirsts and fulfill our Tahitian fantasies, even if we remain in the confines of the concrete jungle.
Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton led the pack by creating ’50s-style button-front satin dresses with rounded collars in bright and pastel colours. To make his statement bolder, Jacobs teamed up with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami to transform Louis Vuitton’s signature brown and tan monogram bags into bright white bags with rainbow LV monograms, computerized floral prints and cartoon creatures.
Dutch design duo Viktor and Rolf avoided the conventional catwalk display and opted for the twinkling lights of a disco ball. What better place to celebrate life and show your true colours than on a dancefloor? The models boogied and twirled in retro Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel-inspired floral print dresses, tailored tuxedo dinner suits, and gowns in a rainbow of tulle roses.
From the runways to reality, you will find bright colours and bold graphics from your favourite brands in classic summer-weight materials – satin (for day or night), brocades, silk cotton blends, lightweight and loosely woven knits, and terry towel. Patterns of the season include ’60s and ’70s pop prints, polka dots, cabana stripes, florals and classic Asian prints.
This season is so full of uplifting clothes and trends that it will be impossible not to draw upon our youthful optimism and creativity to forge ahead and take pleasure in the simpler things in life.
UNISEX
Asian inspiration – Mandarin collars, frog closures, kimono sleeves and wrap tops in cotton or silk brocades are reminiscent of original Far East garments. The prints are traditional or floral, such as cherry blossoms or hibiscus, so don’t bother with the big dragon motifs that were in five years ago – think classic, not commercial.
Runway inspiration: Gucci, Mui Mui, Roberto Cavalli, John Galliano. Off the rack: Chinatown for the real thing, Fuzzi, Jean Paul Gautier, Save the Queen, Damzels in This Dress and Le Chateau.
Sporty beach gear – Tight-fitting polo shirts or polo collars (with a sexy plunging neckline for women) in cotton pique or stretch set the tone for an easy summer afternoon. Zip-front, high-collar knit jackets or hoodies with matching low-rise pants in terry towel make the "sweatsuit" look sexy. Women can look active and attractive in reconstructed skirts from sweatpants and off-the-shoulder tees and sweatshirts. For the beach, pool or park, look for surf- or scuba-inspired active wear, and sexy square-cut bikini bottoms for men and women.
Runway inspiration: Y-3 by Yohji Yamamoto for Adidas, Balenciaga, Chanel, Ann Sui and John Bartlett. Off the rack: Lacoste, Fred Perry, Diesel, Lululemon, Prada Sport and Juicy Couture lounge suits (available for men at Smyth and Kang).
La Dolce Vita – This summer, brush up on your Italian and get inspired by renting Italian neo-realist films of the ’50s and ’60s, such as Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita or Michelangelo Antonioni’s La Notte. These films are like a "how to" video on dressing with elegance and glamour.
For women, look for the shrunken two-button jacket, pencil skirts, cap sleeve blouses with round collars, A-line dresses and empire waists. Men should look for two-button suit jackets and narrow ties.
Runway inspiration: Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Donna Karan and Zac Posen. Off the rack: Marc by Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY for men and Dubuc for men.
Precious Cargo – Cargo pants are the jeans of the season. You can wear them super baggy or slim, with a low- to mid-rise waist. This season the cargo is updated with lots of zippered pockets and drawstrings, or D-ring tabs at the ankles, giving it a bit of a punk edge. The biggest trend for women is full-length or cropped cargos in satin or silk. Guys can pair up cargos with tank tops or sleeveless shirts, as well as mixing the casual look of the pant with a gauzy cotton or linen embroidered shirt.
Runway inspiration: Celine, Dior, D Squared, and Paul and Joe. Off the rack: The real McCoy is at Crown Surplus, while fashionable variations are available from The Gap, Theory, Joie, Punk Royal, J. Lindberg or Da-Nang (coming soon to Primitive and Holt Renfrew).
WOMEN
Mini Skirts – Hemlines are higher! The mini is major news on the fashion scene and comes in many forms – dress or skirt, for work and play, denim minis, satin minis and even cargo minis. To avoid looking like a streetwalker, flats or kitten heels work better than stilettos. Accessorize a mini dress with a low-slung belt, and avoid falling into the ’60s psychedelic trip (save that for the fall).
Runway inspiration: Dolce and Gabbana, Christian Dior, Versace and Marni. Off the rack: D&G, Juicy Jeans and Burberry.
Off the shoulder – Women can create an interesting look by contrasting off-the-shoulder tops in soft materials like silk or chiffon with the masculine styling of a cargo pant or tailored trousers. For an ultra-feminine look, pair up a silky shirt with a pair of silk or satin cargo or harem pants.
Runway inspiration: Gucci and Dolce and Gabbana. Off the rack: Sinequanone, Dubuc for women and Zara.
MEN
Rock Icon – Most menswear designers gave a nod to the quintessential cool of Bowie, Mick, Lenny Kravitz and a touch of Adam Ant. Look for long and lean silhouettes, slim boot cut jeans or pants in white, black or very faded stonewash. Be sure to show off your pecs in slim-fitting button-down shirts with or without sleeves, or mesh tanks and tees. A motorcross-inspired jacket in nylon or leather perfects the look.
Runway inspiration: D Squared, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, Christian Dior Homme and Ellus. Off the rack: J Lindberg, Custo Barcelona, D&G, Dubuc for men, Energie and Gsus jeans.
Ethnic embroidery – For an easy summer look, take a trip to Morocco or Spain. Gauzy or crisp cotton shirts and tunics are embellished with decorative Spanish or Moroccan embroidery, which can be worn casually or dressy. Loose-fitting drawstring pants in linen or cotton paired with a loose knit sweater create a relaxed yet together look that is perfect for hot summer days or nights.
Runway inspiration: Dolce and Gabbana, Forum, Neil Barrette and Missoni. Off the racks: Armand Basi, Dekker, Rare, 4-You and Zara.
ACCESSORIES
Fun and flirty – The key word is fun, so look for scarves, belts and bags in white or colourful cabana stripes, Asian motifs or polka dots. Women’s footwear takes its inspiration from the ’50s, with kitten heels, open toe pumps or flat sandals in colours or hot metallics like silver or bronze. Men’s footwear gets sportier and lighter in shades of tan and also in white. |
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