| There are few regions in the world that have been under vine for longer than Sicily, yet despite more than 4,000 years of viticultural venture, the wines are only now beginning to capture a worldwide audience.
Sicily produces more wine than any other province in Italy, which means that in any given year they crush more fruit than all of Australia. But sadly, only a mere two per cent of this is considered quality wine, while the rest is shipped off in bulk or consumed locally while still young enough to be considered drinkable.
Historically, the white wines of Sicily were dull and flabby, made from innocuous grapes such as trebbiano. The reds were typically overly alcoholic with hard edges and a fiery rusticity that only a local could appreciate.
Today, innovative growers and wine-makers have penetrated the heart of Sicily and are producing wines worthy of international attention. Vineyards that were abandoned have been reclaimed by a group of enthusiastic young vignerons aspiring to produce the very best wines possible. The island can roughly divided into four regions, each with a distinct style and climate.
Marsala is one of the most well-known regions on the island. Her wines became known to the English during the War of Spanish Succession in the early 18th century, when the English were rejecting French wines and had to look to less traditional suppliers. Marsala is made primarily from three native grapes: grillo, catarratto and inzolia. The wines are typically sweet with a small amount of spirit added (originally to it to keep the wines stable for sea voyages). Marsala is made in a similar way as sherry, and has a cooked, nutty character. Unfortunately, the production methods for this wine were compromised in order to produce large quantities when the wines were in great demand, and the resulting low quality caused it to fall out of favour – most is now relegated to the chef’s cupboard for use in sauces.
Messina lies at the far northeastern tip of the island, with Etna just south of it. Together, these two areas make up the bulk of wine production in this corner of Sicily. The main wine district (or DOC), Faro, is making a resurgence, producing fine wines from nerello mascalese, nocera, nerello cappuccio and the most heralded and important red grape, nero d’avola. In Etna, the unique volcanic soils, old vines and cooler temperatures make it an ideal place for quality wine. Excellent red and rosé wines are made from nerello mascalese, while fresh and distinct whites are made from carricante.
Although it lacks structure as far as official production areas are concerned, Western Sicily has managed to produce a great deal of the quality wine on the island. Whites are made from native varietals such as inzolia and grillo as well as French imports such as chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. The red grapes pignatello and nero d’avola are joined by the familiar merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah and pinot noir. These combinations have produced some of the most exciting wines in Sicily and made Palermo one of the most watched areas in Italy.
Southeastern Sicily has seen a great deal of investment and modernization in recent times. Traditionally, this area is famous for its sweet dessert wines, but dry reds are fast becoming the norm. The DOC of Cerasuolo di Vittoria is the most important for red wines, producing fresh examples from frappato and nero d’avola (known locally as calabrese). This region is capable of wonderfully concentrated wines, overflowing with local flavour, making it a region to keep your eye on.
With a seemingly endless supply of interesting grapes, Sicily has the potential to take the wine-drinking world by storm. The tremendous value the region offers will only encourage more people to experiment with these truly remarkable wines.
A few worth trying:
· 2001 Morgante Nero D’Avola IGT ($17.95) – deep purple color with roasted meat and brambleberry aromas, soft and delicious on the palate.
· 2000 Santa Anastasia Nero D’Avola ($15.95) – spicy, with hints of old leather on a soft and rich palate.
· 2000 Santa Anastasia Passomaggio ($19.95) – the touch of merlot makes this wine round and delicious with bright and concentrated fruit.
· 2001 Alcamo DOC ($13.35) – made from catarratto, this fresh white has distinct green apple notes and a balanced acidity (available only at The Wine Shop on 17 Ave. S.W.).
· 2000 Marino Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOC ($12.95) – rich fruit and dark cherry represent classic the classic flavours of frappato and calabrese. |
