Thursday, January 30, 2003
Calgary's News & Entertainment Weekly
FFWD Weekly
FASHION
by Lincoln Phillip
So far we have been lucky with our brown winter season, but we all know that winter in Calgary officially starts in January and ends – well, we won’t get into that right now.

So for the next three months or so, our minds may be on the upcoming warmer days of spring, but for the moment the only warmth we will experience is that of our winter woollies.

In spite of the never-ending white stuff, we should not hide our sense of style under just any old coat while dressing for —30 C weather. Put on a winter classic and show the world (or city) that you put as much thought into your outerwear as you did the outfit you’re concealing.

Seeing that warmth is a priority for all of us, I decided to check out the practical winter jacket classics, refresh your minds on this season’s trends, and show how the two of them combined will make the term "bundle up" sound less like the laborious chore it once was on freezing school mornings.

As far as winter jackets go, they fall into two categories: performance and fashion. Performance is the real McCoy and has all the bells and whistles that will protect you on a freezing day in Winnipeg or on the slopes in Lake Louise. Fashion is inspired by the real thing, but with a sense of attitude and flair to stylishly take you through the urban jungle and to your destination.

IN THE NAVY

Who would know how to brave the cold better than someone from the military? Most of our classic winter coats, such as the duffle, parka, pea coat and trench come from the military, and continually inspire fashion designers to add a touch of G1 chic to their collections. When looking for a winter coat, Christine Cummings of Crown Surplus recommends that you look for jackets with a storm collar and cuff, wind-proof fabric, removable hood and, if possible, Gore-Tex interfacing for ultimate protection from the cold. With this in mind you should be able to find a fashionable coat that will also protect you from the frigid elements.

For fall-winter 2002-03, fashion focuses on aviator styling, with elasticized waistbands and cuffs in bomber jackets. At the moment, versions of the bomber or its cousin, the parka (which is synonymous with Canadian winters), can be seen on the streets of Calgary. The parka comes in many varieties and has influenced fashion labels such as Diesel, Spy Walk, Prada Sport and Zara – it is no longer geeky to be seen sporting that practical fur-trimmed hooded nylon jacket. Of course there is nothing like the real thing, and Cummings recommends a fur-collared nylon version by Alpha Industries or the US N3B Parka, which is perfect for extremely cold weather.

For a dressier note, Cummings points out the pea coat. "It is made of 32-ounce Melton wool, which is perfect for —25 C weather." The pea coat, as well as the duffle, are Navy classics and are the most popular options for a dressier look in outerwear. Modern versions come in a variety of colours and materials, such as double-faced cashmere, wool or a wool blend.

ALPINE

If you are serious about the slopes then you already know what to look for in performance gear. But if your idea of a thrilling experience in the mountains is shopping and dining in Banff, then you are the epitome of every fashion designer’s collection this season.

For men and women, designers re-created the après ski look with flawless perfection. Sportswear lines such as D&G, Iceberg, Max Mara Weekend and Nautica drew inspiration from the down-filled quilted jacket, which is often mistakenly referred to as a ski jacket, although it’s not practical for that purpose.

"The down jacket is a fun and trendy city jacket that is a popular choice for winter wear," says Megan Gaylard of Helly Hansen.

The down-filled jacket comes in many lengths, styles, weights and colours, and almost every line that makes performance ski or board gear makes a down-filled coat for their customers.

SHEARLING

For those who love the look of leather or suede and the natural warmth of fur, then the shearling coat is a great compromise, and its prices vary from inexpensive to your life savings. In some coats the sheepskin is treated to look like fine fur and comes in various lengths and colours, from the classic curly off-white to long-haired dyed in shades of indigo and purple. A shearling is very versatile and can be dressed up for the evening or worn with a pair of jeans of for the day.

For those who oppose wearing the real thing, many brands create a socially conscious synthetic alternative. Levi’s denim shearling has a great vintage vibe and is 100 per cent politically correct when confronting the cold.

VINTAGE

Of course, for those who want to stand out from the rest of the pack, then a vintage piece is always the way to go. Depending on where you look, the cost of a great find will go from $20 and up. Make sure the lining and fabric is in good condition, because replacing the lining or mending the outer material may equal the price of new coat. Fabulous finds are coats from the ’40s or ’50s for their classic tailoring, fine details and heavy wools.

ACCESSORIES

No look is ever complete without the right accessories. If your coat is grey or black, then go for scarves, hats and gloves in bright colours. Don’t forget that this season it’s all about the extra long scarf and chunky tuque, thanks to Marc Jacobs. Poor boy or newsboy hats in tweed or corduroy top off a polished look for men and women. Aviator sunglasses complement a parka or pea coat, plus they will protect you from snow blindness.

For footwear, almost anything goes this season, but do avoid the white Sorels unless it is mandatory to wear them for your job. One look on the runways that may or may not be carried off well on the streets is the fur-trimmed mukluk. Michael Kors, Iceberg and Chanel sent their models down the catwalk in the furriest of footwear – and if you can do it, then wear them well.

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