| Winter isn’t all that bad – you just have to know how to handle it. A lot of people combat cold weather with wool sweaters or warm fireplaces, which is OK, but I think you’ll find my way of keeping out the winter woes a whole lot more appealing.
No sweater, blanket or cozy pair of slippers can deliver the same glow that you get from a little tipple off the old bottle. There’s something about that special golden hue glimmering from the bottom of a snifter and sending penetrating aromas of caramel, burnt wood and orange peel right to the back of your head. With each sip comes another comforting layer of liquid silk, transporting pure warmth to the very core of your body.
If you expect to survive and possibly even flourish during these chilly winter nights, you’ll need to be prepared. And the best way to do that is to tuck away a great bottle of hooch up in the cupboard where nobody knows where to find it. I know spirits aren’t everybody’s bag, but a good bottle of Cognac or Armagnac takes on special purpose when the temperature plunges.
Cognac is a favourite of mine, and each November I secure a bottle (or two) to display on the booze shelf in my dining room. It’s there just in case a holiday guest wants a little something after dinner, to help process whatever creation I’ve concocted that evening. But in reality, most of it gets consumed by me on those frigid December nights when I can still see my breath when I come in the house. Nevertheless, it’s always nice to offer.
Cognac is a special drink due to both the process used to make it and the region from which it comes. Cognac lies just north of Bordeaux and is restricted to tightly drawn boundaries around the town bearing its name. It is here that this unique spirit can be crafted to perfection under the watchful eye of veteran French distillers. The exceptionally chalky soils yield a modest grape called ugni blanc, which is too high in acid and too lacking in flavour to make good wine, but is just right for making quality Cognac. After a low alcohol base-wine is made, it is distilled twice in the traditional pot still, which imparts the spirit with its delicate, complex aromas. During this procedure the first and last part of the distillation are discarded and the producer keeps only the purest portions.
The aging process is one of the most crucial when producing any quality spirit, and for Cognac it also helps define the quality. Storage in oak casks mellows the spirit and produces softer, smoother flavours. The longer it ages, the higher the quality. The basic VS (Very Special) models are typically aged only three years while the superior VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) models are usually aged between eight and 10 years. XOs (Extra Old) are typically over 30 years old and, in the case of the rare vintage bottles, are the product of a single year indicated on the bottle.
It is important to remember that Cognac does not improve once bottled and, in fact, slowly deteriorates over time. When searching out a good Cognac to buy, look for smaller producers such as Chateau Montifaud, Delamain or Frapin and stick to the VSOP level or greater to ensure top quality.
Armagnac is another of France’s famous spirits, and while it is very similar to Cognac, there are important differences. Armagnac is made in a slightly warmer area south of Bordeaux and the same grapes are generally employed for its production (although there are noted exceptions), but the method is decidedly different. The unique design of the Armagnac still, or alembic still, produces a spirit with a more aromatic and fruity character.
Armagnac is also aged in oak and available in several grades. Starting at VO, the spirits are often a little rough and only about two years old. Next comes the VSOP and Reserve levels at five years, which are generally softer and more appealing. The best, however, come from the Vielle Reserve, Napoleon or XO level – here the minimum age is six years, but many of the top producers go much further.
The best producers to seek out are Castarede and d’Ognoas. Ognoas has a great Web site with a virtual still demonstrating how Armagnac is made (www.domaine-ognoas.com).
So when the temperature starts to dip this year, don’t complain – just suck it up, like I do. |
