Thursday, September 19, 2002
Calgary's News & Entertainment Weekly
FFWD Weekly
FALL FASHION
by Lincoln Phillip
Substance with style

The underlying mood of Fall 2002 is a return to the classics that define sophistication, spirit and individuality. Frivolity takes a back seat to clothing that is sensible yet sensational. This season, many designers paid tribute to those who defined their own style, such as the elegance of silver screen gods Garbo and Grant, and the spirit of ’60s mods like The Beatles and The Rolling Stones. Even the fantasy collections dreamed up by Alexander McQueen and John Galliano contained pieces that will function in reality.

Fashion is never boring, and your sense of style shouldn't be, either. Look for classics updated in fabrics such as corduroy, wool woven in gabardine, herringbone and glen plaid. Key colours are black, grey, red, shades of spice, deep violet, chocolate brown, shades of tan and winter white. Brace yourself for bold patterns such as paisley, patchwork and stripes.

There are so many themes and ideas this season that it is ridiculous to say that there is nothing to wear – but no matter what you decide, it’s how you adopt the trends that sums up your own individual style.

UNISEX TRENDS

Aviator – The look of flying the friendly skies is key for those with a sense of adventure. Don the sunglasses and look for vests with zippered details and bomber jackets with elasticized waistbands and cuffs. There are a lot of G1-inspired jackets available, but if you prefer the real thing, then Crown Surplus will definitely fit the bill.

Layered – Remember when your mother told you to bundle up, and you felt like such a dork in all those layers of mismatched clothes? Well, hopefully your fashion sense has evolved enough to co-ordinate your colours and fabrics. Marni and Marc Jacobs make wearing all your favourite pieces at once look effortless and cool. Ladies, you no longer have to cross the border to get your hands on Marc by Marc Jacobs – simply check out Holt Renfrew for the line worn by the über chic starlets. Men, unfortunately, will have to wait a few more seasons.

Shearling – With the trend in aviator gear, the classic shearling jacket is an obvious choice for those who love the look of leather and the warmth of fur. In some coats the sheepskin is treated to look like fine fur, which makes bold statements in men’s bomber and full-length styles. DKNY makes a socially conscious shearling out of synthetics, so Pamela Anderson won’t have to go naked this winter.

TRENDS FOR WOMEN

Cargo – Every second or third fall, this multi-pocket pant reinvents itself and sneaks its way into our closets. This season, cargo pants have revolutionized the look of women’s denim – the fit is slim or baggy, and the envelope pockets are buttoned or zipped and placed on the front of the thigh and the derriere. Key brands are Joie, Jean Paul Gautier and Maharishi.

Demure – Understated elegance with a hint of sex appeal is a strong message for women’s evening wear. Bias-cut dresses in silk, satin and sheer fabrics fit the bill for affairs that require strap heels and heavy flirting. Julian McDonald for Givenchy and Narciso Rodriguez set the mood of high drama and charm in this season’s collections.

Edwardian – Black velvet jackets with gross grain details, man-tailored trousers, waistcoats and crisp white shirts with French cuffs (worn undone) and stand-up collars are key ingredients to make this sophisticated classic work. Ralph Lauren mastered it, while Dolce and Gabbana perfected it with pin stripes and white corduroy.

Gothic – Tom Ford and Alexander McQueen’s take on the Edwardian is just a little darker and more romantic. For Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Ford used ribbons and lace as a feminine touch to his all black collections. Meanwhile McQueen glamourized Grimm’s Fairy Tales with billowing capes, oversized hoods and intricate lacing for modern day Red Riding Hoods.

Suit-up – Suits are a must this season, in fabrics such as tweed, corduroy and velvet. The jacket is shorter, often single-breasted and single-buttoned, with narrow shoulders. The pants come in various lengths and styles. They are either man-tailored with a wide cuff, long and stove-piped, or cropped to show off your fabulous boots. Pencil skirts that fall just below the knee emphasise this season’s lean silhouette.

TRENDS FOR MEN

Alpine – It looks like Dolce and Gabbana, D Squared and Iceberg all have a love affair with everything Nordic. This season, chunky pullovers and zip or wrap cardigans with classic snowflake or reindeer motifs are sure to warm the hearts of even the burliest men.

Satin lover – Men are dressing up once again with a nod to ’40s panache and sophistication. Black is the colour and tuxedo details, such as the satin strip down the pant leg and satin-covered buttons on jackets, create an elegant statement. J. Lindberg makes the ultimate tuxedo shirt out of corduroy, which is one of the many must-have items from this collection, available at Aluminium Planet and Urban Men.

Mod style – Some of you will want to liberate your sense of style by adopting the spirit of London’s Carnaby Street of the ’60s. Men’s suiting slims down and experiments with non-traditional fabrics such as velvet with bold pinstripes. Narrow ties, turtleneck sweaters and shirts with multicoloured stripes make a strong statement with a suit or on their own.

ACCESSORIES

Accessories – To perfect your fall ensemble, pile on jewelry for your neck and wrist in colourful crystal or jet-black beading. Crosses make a strong statement with the Gothic and Edwardian look, with styles ranging from small silver crosses to oversized jewel-encrusted crucifixes. Long ground-sweeping scarves and chunky knit toques will funk up and warm up any outfit, while newsboy and poor boy caps in tweed or cord complete the look for men and women.

Shoes – It’s all about boots this season. A key trend is tucking the pant in the boot to create a long lean look, so it is a must to show off boots that are embossed, repousséed and topstitched. Lengths range from ankle to thigh high, heels are flat, stacked or stiletto, and the toes are extremely pointy. There is also something about Mary Janes this season, a classic that popped up on numerous runways in various shapes, heights and colours. Men expect to see the return of the pointy-toe brogues with a thick leather sole, as well as the Chelsea boot to polish your mod style.

Makeup – To complement his all-black creations, Tom Ford, with the aid of his makeup artist Linda Cantello for Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, set the mood for makeup this season. The smoky eye makes a powerful statement for both day and evening. A new way to frame the eye is to start the darker shadow at the inner corner and gradually lighten the shadow towards the brow while leaving the brow bone bare. To enhance the drama around the eyes, the brow is thick, dark and well groomed. Key colours for eyes are black, brown, olive green and deep violet. Flawless skin is always in, and this season it is achieved with a satin matte foundation. Contouring the face also created a buzz in the beauty beehive – to achieve this look simply use a neutral colour or brown to create more defined bone structure. Lips are both nude and matte or glossed in shades of pale pink, red or cinnamon.

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