| Making it in the Marches
When I first laid eyes on the city of Ancona it was from the back of a hot, stuffy train, where I was awkwardly crammed into a second-class seat. The cool winds of April had left the trailers and volleyball courts scattered across the beach, deserted for the time being. But it didn’t take much imagination to picture swarms of tourists eager to frolic in the soft sand and splash about in the tepid waters.
As the old train rolled by, we peered out the window through a haze of cigarette smoke and saw the first signs of life rustling about among the striking Venetian architecture. Like a lot of Italy’s lesser touted cities, Ancona was both beautiful and inundated with history. But it was the countryside we had come to see – and more specifically, the vineyards. All the pictures I had seen in books showed images of towering cliffs protruding from the ocean and reaching up to seemingly impossible heights. But when I finally got to the water, I wasn’t quite prepared for the dramatic scene which unfolded before my eyes.
Rolling green countryside had given way to a broken and jagged coastline. Trees seemed to grow everywhere the rock would allow, some pointing straight out toward the sea. The spectacular shorelines were pounded by huge waves, hammering away at the enormous rock faces. And just a few metres from all the action, orderly vineyards stood in rows, waiting for the spring sun to deliver flowers, which would eventually become the grapes of fall.
After barely surviving a longer and more exciting drive than expected with a local winemaker, Maurizio Marchetti, we sat down to a generous meal of local cuisine, including shellfish, pasta and a type of bluefish prepared three different ways. As with all the meals I enjoyed in Italy, this one left me feeling like an overstuffed piñata – one poke at my belly and the all the stuffing was ready to come out. It was, however, a great opportunity to sample local wines with the traditional foods.
Verdicchio is the local white wine grape and comes from a number of DOCs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), the most well-known being Castelli di Jesi. The region lies in the rolling Apennine foothills east of Ancona, where the vines set root in a sandy, marl soil and the grapes benefit from a cool climate, allowing them to ripen over a longer period of time. These wines used to be recognized (and some still are) by the amphora-shaped bottle in which they were often packaged. But much has changed in the Marches and cheap gimmicks have given way to quality wine making. Producers have reduced yields and controlled fermentation temperatures in an attempt to capture the distinct aroma of the grape. Now Verdicchio is more often produced on its own rather than diluted with lesser grapes, which was the practice in the past. Some producers have gone a step further, making single vineyard efforts and employing some careful oak aging. Tremendous examples can now be found with flavours ranging from quince to kiwi to orange marmalade, and critics are touting this grape as having one of the most promising futures in Italy.
Our host, Mr. Marchetti, was also keen to share his red wines – and these proved to be delicious beyond expectation. He makes two wines from the DOC Rosso Conero, a famous region just outside of town. Marchetti is a rigid traditionalist who puts all his faith in the local Montepulciano grape for both his wines. Before we left, he drew back the handle of a trap door and slipped out of sight under the floor. Several minutes later a dustier version of the man reappeared, a little frazzled, but wearing a proud smile as he placed a filthy, unlabelled bottle into my companion Tim’s hand. He informed us it was an ’83, a vintage he was very proud of, and he hoped we would enjoy it during our visit.
Our next stop was Florence, where we wasted little time in liberating the contents of our gift. As we kicked back on our rooftop patio with a hunk of cheese the size of a lap dog, we breathed in the magical aromas and savoured the silky texture of this truly distinctive wine, and toasted Maurizio Marchetti, a man as unique as his wines.
Maurizio Marchetti’s wines are available at the Wine Shop on 17th Avenue S.W., including: Marchetti Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, ($12.75), Marchetti Rosso Conero ($15.90), Marchetti Spumante ($16.95), Marchetti Rosso Conero Villa Bonomi ($25.75).
The Trade Commission of Spain invites you to explore the wide variety and richness of the Wines of Spain, at a tasting that will take place at The Metropolitan Centre on September 24. In collaboration with The Alberta National Ballet, the event will be open to the public from 6 to 9 p.m., and the ticket price includes the wine tasting and nibbles. For more information contact Todd Hawlewood at The Alberta National Ballet at 245-4222 (ext. 29). |
