| Getting closure on the great cork debate
Since people began making wine, we have faced the challenge of how to protect it from oxygen.
Initially, barrels were used (sometimes with a protective layer of oil), but these allowed for a certain amount of degeneration. Alcohol was sometimes added in order to fortify the wine and make it more tolerant of oxygen, but more sophisticated markets didn't want the overly alcoholic wines. Then about 300 years ago, the glass bottle was introduced – to this day it has remained relatively unchanged, but the debate over how to seal it is just heating up.
Shortly after bottles came corks, and with them came many new problems. Over the years, there have been attempts to improve them, but these changes have failed to solve the basic problems.
When well made (and free of taint), cork is a great seal and can last for upwards of 50 years. Its unique 14-sided cell structure makes it very elastic, creating a solid barrier between air and wine. The major downfall is cork's tendency to carry TCA (trichloroanisole), a natural mould present in many forms of oak, including cork. The chlorine process that was used in the past to rid the cork of mould only seemed to make matters worse, so today most cork is cleaned through steaming or peroxide treatment.
Many studies have been conducted on cork taint, and the percentage of wines believed to be infected ranges from one per cent to 15 per cent. Unfortunately, it is difficult to know exactly how widespread the problem is because many infected bottles are consumed by unknowing drinkers who blame the off taste on the wine itself.
The other problem with cork is its tendency to loose elasticity if stored in a dry area, which allows air to seep in and spoil the wine. Frustrated producers have spent millions of dollars trying to solve these problems and several systems have been studied – here are the two that seem most likely to make a serious impact on our market.
Synthetic corks made from medical grade plastic were introduced in the early 1990s. Although early versions were problematic, much headway has been made and the current examples appear to be effective seals.
Several companies are producing synthetic corks and many examples currently sit on our wine shop shelves. The main complaint is these corks can be difficult to remove, especially when chilled, and even harder to reinsert. Otherwise, the corks work well and alleviate the potential for cork taint. The Aussies have really embraced this product and major producers such as Lindemans employ them extensively. Other supporters include Masi, St. Francis and Bonny Doon – and the list is quickly expanding.
The other option is the screw cap. In North America, a screw cap is considered to be an inferior stopper used only for inexpensive bottles of wine, but overseas, these views are being challenged. Producers in Australia have begun widespread use of screw cap seals on bottles of Riesling. Through trials, they found that the seal not only prevented taint, but retained the freshness of the wine for a longer period of time. Wine-makers in New Zealand conducted similar trials and had comparable results, and now many a New Zealand Sauvignon blanc can be found wearing a screw cap where a cork once resided.
The main obstacle to the use of screw caps is still the consumer, who has been trained that screw caps equal cheap wine, and replacing the cork does seem to take away some of the romance. However, many of wine's most famous and influential figures are now putting their support behind this system, so don't be surprised if a screw cap appears around the neck of one of your favourite wines in the not-so-distant future.
Producers of cork still defend the industry, downplaying the problem and citing the environmental impact of all those plastic corks, but consumers will ultimately decide the fate of the cork industry. Do you consider the odd corked bottle of wine an acceptable sacrifice for the romantic tradition of cork removal, or would you prefer a quick twist and crack, knowing you have sound wine in the bottle? For more information check out www.corkwatch.com |
