Dancing with the old laddie
Independent Islay distillery realizes a dream
Fifteen years ago, the selection of scotch whisky in Alberta was dismal. An assortment of standardized blends sat on dusty ALCB (Alberta Liquor Control Board) shelves where, week after week, a thirsty public had to choose from the same old stuff.
Today the situation couldn’t be more different. Although most of the whisky available is owned by large multinationals, there is greater interest in older single malts and vintage dated whiskies. This rather recent interest from consumers has led to a vastly increased selection and much more attention being paid to the Canadian market from Scottish distillers. And why not? Outside of Scotland itself, I can’t think of a more suitable climate to consume Scotch whisky than Canada.
Among the newcomers to the market, none is more exciting and dynamic than Bruichladdich (pronounced Brook-laddie), a historic and unique distillery with an inspiring story of struggle and resurrection. The distillery, located on the Scottish island of Islay, was once owned by Jim Beam Brands Europe, but shut down in 1994. As a result, many of the locals lost their livelihoods and had to leave the island to seek employment in other industries. But three men had a dream to buy back the distillery and reopen its doors to the people of Islay – and at 8:26 a.m. on May 29, 2001, Gordon Wright, Simon Coughlin and Mark Reynier realized their dream as the first dram of whisky trickled into the spirit safe.
These three entrepreneurs not only managed to finance the project, enlisting local investors for one-third of the funds, but they also lured the considerable talents of Jim McEwan, who has been named "distiller of the year" three times by The Malt Advocate. McEwan had spent his entire career at Bowmore, where he worked his way up from an entry-level position to master distiller. The shared vision of the distiller and the owners of Bruichladdich was to create the most authentic Islay whisky on the market.
To accomplish these goals, the whisky is produced and aged on the island itself, where fresh sea air contributes to its subtle briny character. Bruichladdich is made in a traditional manner using original Victorian machinery instead of the more usual high-tech computers. No caramel is added to sweeten or darken the spirit, and it is bottled with local Islay spring water, a trait unique to this distillery. To further express the natural flavours of the region, the whisky is bottled at the traditional 46 per cent alcohol without the use of chill-filtration, which can strip a whisky of its weight and complexity.
Bruichladdich goes even further to differentiate their product from others. Rather than introduce a standardized blend, as most producers do, Jim decided instead to release individual editions, each one an exclusive creation and unique expression of Islay whisky.
Albertans are lucky to have first editions of the 10-, 15- and 20-year-olds available (they're older than the distillery because they were produced from casks which remained at the previous distillery after its closure). The 10 ($57), a fresh and lively malt aged in 60 per cent refill sherry casks and 40 per cent bourbon, delivers notes of honeysuckle and fresh sea air on the nose followed by refreshing citrus fruits on the palate, making it an ideal malt for warm summer evenings. The 15 ($75), aged in 85 per cent bourbon and 15 per cent fresh Oloroso sherry casks, has a distinctive nose of biscuit and floral scents, while on the palate it enchants you with complex flavours of butterscotch, vanilla and seaweed. Although the flavours are rich and full-bodied, the whisky delivers them in a soft and silky package. Next is the 20 ($140), which was awarded Single Malt of the Year in the prestigious Merchants Challenge Awards – this contest featured more than 3,000 malts and the Bruichladdich 20-year-old scored highest of all, beating out much more expensive malts such as the 1951 Macallan and 1974 Benromach. This classic whisky is aged in 100 per cent Bourbon casks and offers a spicy and complex nose of mint, spice and vanilla followed by a soft and caressing palate of maple and malt. This is a spirit to hunt down, as it will soon be sold out and replaced by a 17-year-old until the second edition is ready in 2004.
Bruichladdich has received just about every award possible since their rebirth, including "distillery of the year" from The Malt Advocate, which recently once again distinguished McEwan with the title of Scotland’s "distiller of the year." But perhaps most rewarding of all is the knowledge that despite daunting opposition from huge conglomerates, these locals managed to build something unique that can compete worldwide in this fiercely contested market.
Bruichladdich is now the most popular whisky consumed by the people of Islay – and I think that’s something worth raising a dram to.
For more information about Bruichladdich, visit www.bruichladdich.com. |
