| Sake
In the ’80s it was cocktails – nasty concoctions of spirits and liqueurs blended up to deliver alcohol to the brain as efficiently as possible. With the ’90s came the more sound concept of micro-brews, often supplemented with the odd martini to keep the evening on pace. In the new millennium it seems the exotic spirits are winning favour with the trendy drinking crowd – small-batch bourbon, aged tequila, high-end imported vodka and, the latest Pacific Coast craze, sake.
It's no surprise that all those folks bellied up to sushi bars have caught on to the traditional drink of Japan – one can only knock back so much Japanese beer before they start looking for an alternative raw fish chaser. Judging by the selection on the average sushi-hut wine list, sake seems like the only sensible choice.
So where does one begin when choosing a sake to match their raw squid or fresh California roll? Sake is available in several styles and at varying prices. The better sakes are served cold, not hot – if it's not tea, it shouldn't be steaming. Sake is a lot like wine in that the better the quality of the raw product (be it rice or grapes), the better the end result.
Starting with the best quality sake rice, the talented Toji (brewmaster) begins the arduous task of producing fine sake. The first step is the polishing or rice milling. In finer sake this is done gently by a computer-controlled machine that removes the desired quantity of the husk. The amount of milling has a great effect on the quality and style of the sake.
Next the nuka (white powder) is washed away and the rice is soaked to obtain the optimum amount of water for steaming. The most intriguing part of sake production comes during the steaming, when the Koji-jin is spread over the top of the rice. Koji is a special mould, slightly unique to each producer, which is propagated in-house and used several times. The Koji is spread over the cooled rice and dissolves starch into a more fermentable sugar.
Next the shubo (yeast) is added to create the moromi (basic mash). The mash is moved to a larger fermenting tank where more rice, Koji and water are added. Pressing follows, and this stage again requires much skill and experience from the Toji – the timing is crucial and there are several options for pressing out the clear juice. New computer-generated bladder presses are common, but the better ones are pressed in the traditional fashion. Here the moromi is placed in canvas sacks and allowed to slowly drip out. The final steps see the sake filtered, pasteurized and aged for about six months.
When buying sake in a shop or restaurant, it is important to remember that there are several styles available.
Honjozo-shu is a sake where a small amount of distilled alcohol has been added to smoothen and lighten the flavour. These must be made with a milling of at least 70 per cent, so at least 30 per cent of the husk has been removed. This style tends to be lighter with slight sweetness and an earthy component, often lacking the elegance of finer sake.
Junmai-shu is a pure sake – no artificial sugars or starches are used in fermentation, nor is any alcohol added. Again the milling minimum is 70 per cent, but the end result is fuller and richer with more acidity.
Ginjo-shu is made with special yeasts and fermented at a lower temperature to produce a lighter and more delicate sake. In this style, 40 per cent of the grain is polished away, leaving it fragrant and elegant.
The last style is Daiginjo-shu. The rice is milled so that no more than 50 per cent is remaining (often less), and all care is taken to preserve the fragrance and character.
An important term to look for on a sake bottle is Jizake, which refers to a small artisan producer, rather than a mass-produced product.
Although sake will probably never replace that after-work beer or glass of wine we’re used to, it does offer us an interesting alternative when matching Asian foods. Here are a few of the better ones available in Calgary:
· Yoshi no Gawa Jizake Junmai ($15.95) – medium dry with full, rich flavour.
· Sho Chiku Bai Premium Ginjo ($7.25) – light and fresh.
· Haru Junmai ($18.95) – rich and complex. |
