| Riverside Coffee House
I don't know how many times I've sat in my car at the corner of southbound Edmonton Trail and Memorial Drive N.E., looked at the Riverside Coffee House (16 - 4 St. N.E.) and wondered how it survives. At first glance, it’s a nondescript building that doesn't appear to have any parking, and you wouldn’t expect it to be worth a detour. As I discovered this week though, the Riverside is all about dispelling preconceived notions.
For one thing, it does have parking, you just have to access it from the narrow alley next to the Esso station. And for another, while the Riverside may seem a bit tattered on the outside, the décor inside is warm and homey, matching the food. The place has a natural, unpretentious charm and this has obviously attracted a regular clientele – the seven or so tables were full when we arrived.
Don't go to the Riverside expecting fine dining – it's more of a breakfast and lunch place, serving sandwiches, soups, a couple of hot items, that sort of thing. This isn't meant as a criticism. In fact, I'd much prefer to eat there than an upscale place with marginal food, because the food is good at the Riverside. I'd describe it as being made by an experienced home cook – it’s simple, tasty and filling.
The two daily soups, for example, are made that morning from scratch (I spied the pot sitting in the sink behind the counter). The non-dairy broccoli and cauliflower was made in a French potage-style, thickened not with flour but with the ingredients themselves. It needed a bit of seasoning, but on a cold day, it hit the spot. This came with a grilled half sandwich, of three cheeses and capicollo on a multi-grain baguette, for $5.61. Wow, is that inexpensive. There are very few places delivering good food so cheaply.
There was also a large black bean burrito served with zippy homemade salsa and accompanied by a crisp mixed salad with the Riverside's own dressing ($6.17), as well as an 11-layer lasagna ($7.24), strongly flavoured with sage. Again, I'm not sure how they can produce such good food for that low price, but they're managing and I'm all for it.
The desserts are mostly homemade, and they are baked goods of the Prairie variety: a thick "cowboy" cookie, which was a bit heavy; the best matrimonial cake (that's date squares to you non-Prairie types) I've had in a long time, flavoured with citrus; and – the hallmark of any decent coffee house – good butter tarts. The coffee was also good, strong enough and dark. Maybe the worm is turning in Calgary restaurants, and they are realizing that the clientele won't put up with java that's watery and burnt. I certainly hope so.
Overall, the Riverside is a great little place, and quality has obviously been their recipe for survival. It's open every weekday from 7 a.m. until 6 p.m., and from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends. |
