| For extravagant dining, Teatro is worth the price
There has been a proliferation of good high-end restaurants in Calgary in the last year or two, and there are more to come. Whether or not they can survive is another question. I fervently hope that they can because I've had great meals at these places, but competition is stiff, rents are high and restaurant patrons are notoriously fickle.
In contrast to these new places, there are some restaurants, Teatro being at the top of the list, which are over the initial hump and are now cruising in fifth gear. The menu at Teatro (200 8th Ave. S.E.) has changed since the new chef, Michael Allemeier, took over a while ago – gone is the Italian theme, and in its place is contemporary, urbane food which would not be out of place in New York or Chicago. Two recent visits, one at lunch and another at dinner, confirmed Teatro's status as Calgary's best splurge restaurant.
There is lots to love about the place – the high ceilings and natural light make the restaurant feel very urban, as does the art collection, which I love. The waitstaff, clad in long aprons, ties and vests, all seem to be Calgary restaurant veterans, and these people really know what they're doing, at least at dinner. They don't hover, don't appear to patronize the diners, and can tell when people need assistance and when they want to be left alone. The service at lunch was also very good, but a bit unctuous – in a restaurant like this, I don't really need to be told by the server that my choice of the ravioli is a fabulous one. But I think this is nitpicking.
The reason I go to Teatro is for the food and the wine list. Malpeque oysters were a good beginning – served on the half-shell with a shallot vinaigrette, the saltiness of the oysters were offset by the acidity of the vinaigrette and the Premier Cru Chablis, which was available in a half-bottle. The foie gras terrine was unbelievably rich, and they had a white asparagus salad which was out of this world.
For the main course, grilled halibut was accompanied by fiddleheads (you've gotta love a chef who cooks vegetables that are in season) and curry oil; while the pheasant, cooked to perfection, was served with a demi-glace and partnered with sugar snap peas, also in season. This sort of cooking requires both talent and dedication, especially in Calgary, where it's not always easy to find the best fish or the freshest vegetables. But time after time, they appear on the plate at Teatro.
The desserts were beautiful – the chocolate dessert sampler had chocolate paté and a tiny fallen chocolate soufflé, while the homemade chocolate truffles are divine. There is an also an excellent cheese plate focusing on Canadian cheeses.
The wine list is extensive, interesting and full of hidden gems, which the sommelier is keen to help you find. He's about the most unpretentious person you could imagine, and we had a difficult wine and food pairing with the halibut and pheasant. We settled on Chinon from a great producer in the Loire, and true to form, the wine (and the sommelier) delivered.
Unfortunately, the meal always ends, and then, well, the bill comes. I always remind myself that Teatro is an expensive restaurant, and I don't go there every night. You should reasonably expect to spend $100 per person with wine, and you can certainly go over that if you really get into the wine list. But this is what it costs to keep raising the bar – if anything, the standards at Teatro, especially since Allemeier took over, are even higher than they were before. This sort of commitment to quality and service gives other restaurants something to aspire to. And we the patrons can only benefit from that. |
