Chapoutier excels
Making wine the old-fashioned way pays off
It is no secret that people working in the wine trade, especially in Calgary, get to taste a lot of good wine. Tastings occur on almost a weekly basis throughout the year – most are good, some are not so good, and every now and then, some are terrific. Such was the case last week when Michel Chapoutier breezed into town for a tasting of his wines from his properties throughout the south of France.
There are very few fans of French wine that are not familiar with the Chapoutier name. Founded in 1808, it has always been synonymous with wines produced in France’s Côtes du Rhône region. The quality of their wine over many decades had been uneven, but that reputation changed dramatically when Max Chapoutier’s youngest son, Michel, took the helm in 1988. When the 1989 vintages were released, under Michel’s guidance, the critics took notice.
The influential wine critic Robert Parker, in particular, became enamoured with these wines (some would say unnaturally so). Parker uses the controversial 100-point system to rate wine, and promptly awarded Chapoutier’s 1989 Ermitage Le Pavillon 100 points – theoretically, perfection in wine-making. Since then he has bestowed the winery with several 100-point anointments, which has undoubtedly helped the winery's reputation and, in turn, has allowed them to command top dollar for their best wines.
But if the proof, as they say, is in the pudding, then the pudding offered up at last week’s tasting was pretty damn good. I reported on a similar tasting conducted here last year by Michel’s brother Marc (who is no longer with the firm), which was interesting, but not in the same league as the one we were just treated to.
For starters, Michel Chapoutier is an innovator in viticultural management. He believes strongly in organic and biodynamic farming, and practices it throughout his vast holdings of vineyards. To say he is passionate about winemaking and grape-growing would be an understatement, and he had no problem convincing the crowd on hand of this fact.
Biodynamic farming, be it for grapes or other agricultural products, makes so much sense that it is hard to imagine why it has not been adopted to a greater degree. Striking a harmonious balance between man and nature has become a critical issue around the world, and with a significant (and ever expanding) proportion of agricultural area covered in vines, wineries now have a responsibility to be environmentally conscious.
Not surprisingly, Chapoutier has recorded yields that are virtually equivalent to those dating back to the time when the use of chemical pesticides and fertilizers was common in his own vineyards. From a qualitative perspective, his wines are generally first rate, and he is one of those rare producers who manages to make some astounding wines in years that are often considered poor, which is one of the true tests of a great winemaker.
Because of his various vineyard holdings throughout the south of France, Chapoutier is able to offer a wide selection of wines at all price levels. In the $10 range, his Cigala red and white – made in the Vins de Pays des Côtes Catalanes region – are about as good as you will find at this price point. These days, any wine that is drinkable and has some character (as these do) in the $10 range is definitely a bargain. They offer a nice simple dry rosé, the 1998 Belleruche Coteaux-du-Tricastin, for around $13, and a 1998 Tavel (an appellation in the Rhône devoted to producing top-notch dry rosé) for about $22. If you are looking for a rich, full-bodied spicy red wine, I can highly recommend their 1999 Valréas Côtes du Rhône ($20). For cellaring prospects, check out the 1997 Domaine Des Béates (a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon), an intense and richly flavoured red wine that is drinkable now, but will be even better in a few years.
If you have never tasted pure marsanne, a highly aromatic and flavourful white grape, try the Chante Alouette white Hermitage ($50), an expensive white wine, but a wine unlike any other. Fully dry, it is brimming with honeyed peach/pear and lychee flavours – a truly exotic white wine that will also improve with age. Cheers! |
