FFWD Weekly
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Food by Beth Weisberg Cheddar. The typical response to name-a-Canadian-cheese. For a country of people nicknamed cheeseheads (as we’re known mostly in the Pacific Northwest States because, before the dollar went bust, Canadians used to drive just south of the border and load up on cheap cheese), we’re not exactly floating in homemade choices. While locally produced cheeses are traditional in Europe, they're still a rarity around these parts. But in the past few years, there have been stirrings of change. "When we came (from Germany) 11 years ago there wasn't that much variety in the (Canadian) stores, but it's getting more and more here now," says cheesemaker Christiane Welkerling of Shepherd Gourmet Dairy. "People want to try something different, not just the cheddar cheese." Shepherd Gourmet Dairy and Sylvan Star Cheese are two of a growing number of local producers. With a small amount of effort you can locate their cheeses at various grocery stores, or try them on the menu at a regional restaurant. The River Café, for example, was instrumental in giving Shepherd their start. The current menu features Shepherd and Sylvan Star products. Like many people this summer, River Café head chef Glen Manzer discovered John and Janny Schalkwyk's Sylvan Star gouda at a farmers’ market. "Sylvan Star gouda is unbelievable," says Manzer. "Their aged gouda is fantastic. We just started using them about two months ago when I stumbled across them." After only two years in production, the Schalkwyk's extra-medium gouda took first place in the Firm Cheese Category at the 2000 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix in Montreal, snatching the prize from more established Eastern producers. But Schalkwyk’s no Johnny-come-lately, having spent 20 years making cheese in the Netherlands. When he and his family came to Canada five years ago, they built a barn, acquired 80 Holsteins and got to work. All their cheeses are delicious, but in the Netherlands, aged gouda is especially loved for its developed flavour. "And I see the same thing over here. You see people, they look for old cheddar, and they taste the old gouda and ‘Oh!’ they say, ‘excellent flavour.’" On the subject of flavour, Schalkwyk doesn't hesitate to give some cheesy advice. "What is very important is always to serve the cheese at room temperature. Many people put it in the fridge, and that is OK, but then they take it out and use it directly – that is too cold. There's no flavour. You lose the flavour. Just take it out a couple hours before, and use it at the room temperature. Then you have flavour in your cheese." However, developing that flavour begins long before the cheese makes it to your fridge. "The difference is the feed for the cows. I like to feed the cows a lot of alfalfa and grass. That is better for the cheese – the fat of the cream in the milk will be softer... than with barley or corn. The softer fat will give better aroma, and more flavour in cheese." Christiane and Peter Welkerling's cheese operation – she makes the cheese, he handles the business – started off with Christiane in her kitchen, using up extra sheep’s milk to make cheese. She gave samples to a few chefs, who liked the product. With import restrictions on fresh sheep’s milk products from Europe, the sizable number of people allergic to cow’s milk, and the health benefits of sheep’s milk (twice the calcium of cow’s milk, says Christiane) the couple realized there was a niche market for locally produced sheep's milk cheeses. "And then we had the opportunity to bring in genetics, because there were no dairy sheep around here." By genetics, she means semen and embryos, which were brought in from Switzerland, England, Holland and Germany. Besides the international pooling of body fluids, Christiane says the cheese is as natural as possible. "No preservatives, no colouring and the sheep don't get antibiotics in their feed." Still, she adds, getting people to try the cheese is a challenge. "Lots of people have never had sheep's milk cheese before. It's still kind of strange for most people here. They're not aware that those cheeses are out there." They are out there, they taste great, and here’s where to buy them: · Sylvan Star Cheese (R.R. #1 Red Deer, phone (403) 340-1560) Gouda varieties: spiced (cumin, cayenne/green peppercorn, onion/garlic/paprika, a sublime clove version, and several more) or plain (from a mild aged about two months to a two-year-old sharp version). Available at: farmers' markets, Edelweiss Village and Debaji's. · Shepherd Gourmet Dairy (R.R. #1 Innisfail, phone (403) 728-3257) Feta varieties: tomato/oregano, chive, basil/hot pepper, and plain (their best-seller). Available at: Debaji’s, Community Natural Foods, Sunterra Market and the farm’s own shop. Both producers also offer tours if you call ahead.

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