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Food by Beth Weisberg Most people assume Spanish cuisine is spicy, based on the one-note interpretations of Mexican cuisine served North American fast-food style. But sharing a language doesn't mean the cooks want to share the kitchen. A highlight of Spain’s contribution to the dining experience is tapas. The traditional small dishes, ranging from olives to squid to ham, rely on garlic, olive oil and mellow peppers like paprika for their flavouring. In other words, you won't be biting down on any hidden jalapenos. Tapas has exploded on the Vancouver dining scene – in Calgary, Bodega leads the pack in focusing on a wide variety of original selections. There's a new place on the scene, though. Across from McMahon Stadium just off Crowchild Trail, La Tasca takes over the end bay of a strip mall. Bright white walls, terracotta floors, chandeliers and some creative brick painting create an atmosphere that is airy and old-world at the same time. Large windows along two walls bring in the sunshine, and if you use enough imagination you might convince yourself that there's some bull-fighting going on at the stadium across the road. In terms of being transported to Spain, though, my friends and I were more interested in the food. The prices here (appetizers and tapas $6-$8, entrees $14-$19), while not unreasonable, indicate that you should take your time with your meal. Our first dish was an appetizer of scallops in white wine sauce. Served in a seashell with potato piped around the edges, three slightly salty scallops sat in a tasty sauce – a light and elegant way to start the meal. For the next course, one friend ordered the Sopa de Ajo, a.k.a. garlic soup. The beautiful muted paprika red of the mellow soup enveloped a poached egg and was topped with a piece of bread – "like French onion soup without the cheese," said my friend. He loved it. At the other side of the table, we tried a salad of white beans, roasted red pepper and several large romaine leaves. The beans were bland, and there wasn't much roast to the pepper, but the tangy vinaigrette had a nice garlic base. It was a good time for our one entrée to arrive. Though the waiter didn't ask how my friend wanted her beef tenderloin done, it was perfectly cooked to her taste – rare. The bacon wrapping permeated the meat beautifully, and the rich wine peppercorn sauce, yams, broccoli and potato were fine accompaniments. My friend was first pleased, and later stuffed. My other friend wondered if it was worth $19. Meanwhile, the other two of us concentrated on the pageful of tapas selections. We chose artichokes cooked with onions and bacon, Galician style octopus, chicken croquettes, chicken wings and a tortilla. The Spanish tortilla, La Tasca style, is an omelette of mashed potatoes and onion, mildly seasoned. Served with no embellishment, this six-inch round is comfort food, plain and simple. The artichokes were a pleasantly acidic counterpoint to the tortilla – the bits of onion and bacon kept things mellow and balanced. It's also a good dish to order with a fried tapas, such as the chicken croquettes. These were fingerl-sized morsels with a crisp crust and a mild, creamy interior. If you like your chicken with more zing, try the Spanish-style chicken wings. The meat of the wing is shinnied down the main bone and wrapped with the skin around one end. This end sits in a deliciously tangy red wine sauce, which makes you really appreciate your basket of (dippable) bread. The other notable tapas was octopus prepared in Galician style – unfortunately, it wasn't on the menu for our second visit. Slices of tentacles in a paprika and garlic infused oil may not look a thing of beauty, but the flavour of these rounds was excellent, and we hope they bring them back. If you have a sweet tooth, the orange flan with its slivers of candied peel has a depth of flavour worth the extra few dollars. There's nothing to dislike about La Tasca (2138 Crowchild Trail N.W., phone 210-5566) – the staff are friendly, the building is easily accessible from Crowchild or the Banff Trail C-Train stop, smokers are accommodated, and the octopus (if it returns) and chicken wings are worth another visit. If you like to wine and dine in a traditional style, you'll like this place; if you want something a bit more on the edge, go elsewhere.

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