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Booze by Geoff Last Spring in Calgary is not pretty. The retreating snow leaves in its wake a season’s worth of dirt, assorted (and sordid) debris and gravel. The trees and grass seem to turn green in the period of about a week, and in the interim most of the moisture we receive comes in the form of freak snowstorms. But spring it is, and there are signs of it, they are just a little harder to find than in other places. The supermarkets serve as my seasonal barometer, with offerings of Alberta spring lamb, fiddlehead greens and asparagus – even if most of it comes from Mexico right now. In the wine trade, spring means the arrival of new vintages and new producers to the already vast Calgary market. There are many 1997 vintage wines from Europe arriving now and in the near future, and quality varies greatly from region to region – ’97 was difficult for Bordeaux and the southern Côtes-Du-Rhône, but good for Burgundy and Alsace. The best bets for the ’97 vintage, though, are the wines of Tuscany. Many producers are calling it the "vintage of the century," a term that has failed to live up to that billing more than a few times in the past, but the evidence so far is encouraging. The ’97s that I have tasted have been very ripe, rich wines and the reservas (when they are released) should be able to age for decades. Unfortunately, the best wines from Tuscany have become expensive, but there are bargains to had from the lesser-known producers. Try the Villa Teseo Sangiovese ($13.50 and a pick from Kensington Wine Market in my last column on bargain wines) or the Le Lame Sangiovese, another solid Tuscan wine at $13.50. And while I am on the subject of bargains, here are the remaining picks from the second batch of stores carried over from the last column. Merlo Vinoteca · Leonildo Pieropan 1998 Soave Classico, $16 – A benchmark for Soave, this crisp white wine makes an excellent aperitif and pairs well with vegetable dishes as well as light pastas, egg dishes and grilled or broiled fish. · Fattoria dei Barbi 1998 Chianti Colli Sensi, $15 – From the beautiful Tuscan town of Montalcino, this classically styled Chianti makes a great everyday red, perfect with roast chicken or tomato-based pasta dishes. · Fattoria dei Barbi 1997 Brusco dei Barbi, $16 – Brusco is an easy drinking red that matches up nicely with pizza, focaccia and grilled foods. Made entirely from Sangiovese, it is a well-balanced wine that offers great value. The Wine Shop · Bougrier Tourraine 1998 Sauvignon Blanc, $9.95 – A delicate, crisp white wine with tart fruit flavours and a subtle, flinty finish. An excellent aperitif or a good mate for seafood. · Casa Vinicola Fossi "Fossi Rosso," $9.95 – A complex quaff, deriving its character from a blend of three vintages of Chianti as well as some Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera. Wacky, sure, but fun to drink. · Bodegas Farina 1998 Colegiata Tinto, $9.95 – A full-bodied red from northwestern Spain that possesses rich, spicy red berry fruit aromas and flavours. Destined for foods from the grill. J Webb Wine Merchants · Nieto 1999 Senetiner Reserve Syrah, $13.95 – This Argentinian wine is packed with delicious ripe berry character that will seduce you with its soft silky tannins, only to whip you into submission with a core of intense fruit. · Paul Zinck Pinot Blanc, $13.95 – Put aside your preconceived notions about Pinot Blanc, because this wine is an explosion of ripe melon fruit with just the right amount of crisp acidity. · Les Sens de Branda, 1997 Bordeaux Superieur, $13.95 – A Bordeaux on a bargain list is kind of like a Kennedy at a soup kitchen, but stranger things have happened. Displaying many of the characteristics that endeared so many people to Bordeaux in the first place, it dispels the notion that a second mortgage is required to enjoy the wines from this famous region. MetroVino · Cave Spring 1998 Riesling, $13.75 – This Canadian winery recognized the potential to make great Riesling in the Niagra region years ago, and this wine is a classic example, with crisp acidity and a nice touch of citrus and minerals. · Castillo de Almansa 1994 Reserva, $11.20 – Spain’s Almansa region remains relatively unknown, but this wine has garnished a legion of loyal fans that appreciate the immense character offered in a wine at this price. Lush berry flavours, a touch of spice and soft tannins make this wine a true bargain. · Chateau Segries 1998 Reserve Lirac, $22.50 – The 1998 vintage for the southern Rhône Valley is looking like a classic (some are saying the vintage of the century) and the great Chateauneuf-du-Papes are reputed to be sky-rocketing in price when they are released, but here is a wine from the neighbouring region of Lirac that offers many of the same charms at a fraction of the price. This Syrah/Grenache blend is loaded with spice, ripe fruit and lively acidity that will allow it to improve for several more years. Cheers!

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