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Booze by Geoff Last The French winemaker Jean Hugel was once quoted as saying "Riesling would be the most popular white wine in the world if the Germans had not ruined it." The remark was undoubtedly made with tongue planted firmly in cheek, but the point is well taken. In Hugel’s native region of Alsace they tend to produce fully dry Rieslings, while the German counterparts are typically of an off-dry nature. The public perception of German wines as a whole is that they are cloyingly sweet, a perception has that damaged the grape’s image no matter where it is produced. In truth, Riesling is responsible for producing some of the greatest white wines on the planet, and it is unfortunate that this noble varietal does not get the respect and following it deserves. Historically, the great German Rieslings were once as sought after and highly regarded as any fine wine from France, but a trend towards sweeter, mass-produced versions (think Blue Penguin) in the latter part of the 20th century damaged the wine’s reputation, the impact of which is still being felt by the German wine industry to this day. While Riesling is not the most widely planted grape in Germany (that would be Muller-Thurgau), it is certainly the noblest. The grape tends to thrive in cooler climates, which would explain why it is enjoying success in the Niagra region of Ontario and, to a lesser degree, in the Okanagan Valley. The banks of Germany’s Mosel River are home to the most famous vineyards sites in the country, and the cooling effect the river provides in the warm summer months are key to the development of world class Riesling. The heart of the region – the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (named for the river and its two tributaries) – benefits from excellent exposure and good drainage due to the slate-based soils. Grapes that work well in cool climates typically exhibit high acidity, a key component when pairing wine with food. The crisp, lively acidity that Riesling possesses (whether dry or slightly sweet) works exceptionally well with foods that are considered difficult to pair with wine. Asian foods in particular are often a natural foil to German Riesling as the slight sweetness helps cut through some of the hotter spices that would overwhelm most other wines. Another excellent combination is with sushi, especially if you like a liberal amount of wasabi with your fish. In addition to their ability to complement a wide array of foods, great Riesling is capable of aging for decades, also thanks to its high acidity. Over time, the acids (and some of the sweetness) will diminish, and a fully mature Riesling is a taste sensation unlike any other. Great Riesling dances on the tip of the tongue while offering notes of green apple, apricots, citrus fruits, pears, peaches and minerals. The small amount of sweetness becomes almost imperceptible amidst the lively acidity, so don’t let it deter you from discovering this overlooked treasure. Deciphering a German wine label thoroughly requires some study, but there are a few key components to remember. First of all, don’t assume that because it is German it must be Riesling. The word "Riesling" should be displayed on the label. The term "Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete" (usually shortened to just Qualitätswein or Q.b.A.) means that the wine originates from one of the 13 Q.b.A. regions (the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer being just one of them) and undergoes the official testing process. The term "Qualitätswein Mit Prädikat" (quality wine with special attributes) is similar to Q.b.A. with the exception that chaptalization (the process of adding sugar to wine when nature does not co-operate with the necessary ripening) is not permitted. The terms "Kabinett," "Spätlese," "Auslese," "Beerenauslese," "Eiswein" (known in Canada as ice wine) and "Trockenbeerenauslese" refer to the various degrees of ripeness at harvest, with a Kabinett typically (though not always) being the driest. Try saying those with a mouth full of beer nuts. The two other terms of key importance are "Trocken" (dry) and "Halbtrocken" (half-dry). Also of note is that most Rieslings typically possess alcohol levels around 8.5 per cent, which means you can pound a half bottle over lunch without fear of the various repercussions that come with the territory. Some of Germany’s best-known producers are available in our market, and you can expect to pay between $12 to $25 a bottle for one of the better examples. Here are a few producers I have tried in recent weeks and can highly recommend: Graff 1998 Spatlese ($15.50), Selbach-Oster 1997 Kabinett ($18), Fritz Haag 1998 Kabinett ($25) and Dr. Bürklin-Wolf 1998 Kabinett ($19). Richmond Hill Wines carry one of the best selections of Riesling in the city, with knowledgeable staff to guide you through the somewhat confusing realm of German wine labeling. Cheers!

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