FFWD Weekly
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Booze by Geoff Last Last year, when the media began speculating that vintage Champagne was going to become scarce and more expensive as the millenium approaches, many people in the wine industry (myself included) dismissed this forecast as a ploy for opportunistic Champagne producers to push their sales to new heights. Apparently, it worked. The excellent 1989 and 1990 vintages from some of the top producers, such as Moet & Chandon’s Dom Perignon and Perrier-Jouet, are already sold out (although a number of stores still have some of these vintages in stock) and they are now offering wines from either the difficult 1992 vintage or the forthcoming (and much better) 1995 vintage. Prices have held relatively firm, but increases (some of them stiff) are on the way, so my advice is to buy now. Because of our flat tax, Alberta enjoys some of the cheapest Champagne prices in the world, coupled with a selection that is second to none in Canada, so securing some top-notch fizz for the big calendar flip is still a relatively simple task. There will undoubtedly be more vintage Champagne consumed this New Year’s Eve than at any other time in history, but there are alternatives. A vintage Champagne is produced in what should be an exceptional year for the grapes, reflecting the ideal conditions of the harvest. Producers must wait a minimum of three years to release these wines, although most prefer to wait five (or more) years before they are sent to market. Seventy-five percent of the Champagne made is of the non-vintage type, which must be aged for a minimum of one year, so it is in abundance. It is important to remember that not all vintage and non-vintage wines are created equal. An exceptional producer, such as Bollinger, may make a non-vintage wine that will surpass (in quality) a vintage wine from a lesser producer, although this is often reflected in the price. The primary grapes for Champagne are chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, although some minor varietals, such as arbanne and petit meslier, are permitted. A traditional Champagne will often include all three of the primary grapes, and the blending (known as the assemblage) is a complex undertaking, as the final product may contain as many as 70 different base wines. The assemblage is critical because it determines the "house" style that must be maintained from year to year, reflecting the individuality and personality of the wine that consumers come to rely upon. Champagne styles: • A Champagne labeled "Blanc de Blancs" means the wine is composed entirely of chardonnay, while a "Blanc de Noir" is composed of the dark-skinned grapes, pinot noir and/or pinot meunier. • Rosé can be made either by blending some red wine back into the white (a cheaper method) or by allowing the dark grapes to spend a couple of days in contact with their skins, thus extracting some colour that would be lost otherwise. The best (such as Perrier-Jouet or Bollinger) are delightful, but tend to be somewhat scarce. • R.D. – an actual trademark of Bollingers – stands for recemment degorge, or, recently disgorged. Wines produced in this method are left in contact with the lees (sediment composed mostly of dead yeast cells) longer than usual, resulting in a very yeasty, toasty style. • Cuvée Prestige – or special cuvée, as they are also known – indicates Champagne of the highest calibre, be they vintage or non-vintage, and are typically made from grapes from the best vineyard sites. The term is not a guarantee of quality, however, so attention to the reputation of the producer is important. A few firms also make a single vineyard wine, such as Drappier’s Grande Sendree and Krug’s Clos du Mensil, but these are rare and very expensive. • The term "brut" is the most commonly encountered denomination of sweetness (possessing less than 15 grams of sugar per litre, making it a dry style), but you will also find extra-brut, sec (17 to 35 grams per litre) and demi-sec (33 to 50 grams per litre). The demi-secs are really of an off-dry nature, but are often of inferior quality and are rarely seen in our market. A good wine deserves a good glass, and I am frequently annoyed by fine dining establishments that offer glassware better suited to milk and cookies, especially when you consider the obscene mark-ups many restaurants employ. Tall, thin Champagne flutes are ideal as they accentuate the bubbles, aroma and even the taste. Avoid the old saucer-style glasses – these have the opposite effect, killing the mousse (the French term for the wine’s fizziness), which is, after all, a large part of Champagne’s charm. Unless you have just won a Formula One race, a bottle of Champagne requires a deft touch to avoid losing any of the precious contents. A minimal amount of movement beforehand will assist in the opening process, as a Champagne bottle is under six atomospheres of pressure. Once the foil capsule is removed, the wire basket must be undone, always pointing the bottle away from one’s face, as simply undoing the wire is enough to launch the cork into orbit. Once the wire has been removed, grasp the bottle firmly by the cork, tilting it at slight angle, and twist the bottle (not the cork) gently in either direction until you feel the pressure easing the cork outwards – ideally allowing a tiny amount of air to escape, followed by a slight whisp of mist that should arise from the bottle, a glorious sight and sound to accompany what is surely the world’s sexiest drink. Recommended producers: • Bollinger – You can’t go wrong with anything from this firm. The non-vintage Special Cuvée is excellent ($45) as are their vintage offerings. A first-rate producer. • Drappier – Another excellent producer that excels in consistency, offering a fruity, biscuity house style. • Pierre Gimonnet – A small but reputable firm producing reasonably priced Blanc de Blanc. Great value in a non-vintage wine. • Charles Heidsieck – Try their 1990 vintage, a good deal at $45 if you can find it. • Nicolas Feuillatte – One of Champagne’s rising stars, offering great value for wines of this calibre. A serious contender in all categories. • Krug – Considered by many to be the finest Champagne made. They are consistantly outstanding, although a second mortgage may be required prior to purchase. • Bruno Paillard – Like Feuillatte, this is another producer whose wines are under-valued, producing Champagne of exceptional quality and finesse. There are, of course, a host of other excellent Champagnes available in our market from houses such as Pol Roger, Perrier-Jouet, Moet & Chandon, Tattinger, Salon, De Venoge, Louis Roederer, and Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin. As always, the better wine boutiques will be happy to assist you in securing the appropiate fizz for your millenium festivities. Cheers! NEW ARRIVAL Peak Brewing Company celebrated its grand opening in Canmore last week with the launch of three specialty brands of all natural, unpasteurized German lagers – Cutthroat German Octoberfest Beer, Bruno’s Dunkel Style Lager (named for popular mountaineer Bruno Engler), and Mile 68 Helles Style Lager. The venture is a merger between the former Banff Brewery and Bow Valley Brewing.

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