FFWD Weekly
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Food by FFWD Staff The lure of Montreal smoked meat manifests itself in many ways. In Montreal, I once watched in horror as an ardent vegetarian rubbed a fatty chunk of my smoked meat sandwich all over his clothes and through his hair. Later, my own obsession with smoked meat sandwiches had me conning friends into convincing Purolator to ship packages of freshly cut meat halfway across the country in overnight parcels. Since those dark times of the late ’80s, finding a decent smoked meat sandwich in Calgary has become easier. Café Metro (17 - 7400 Macleod Tr S.) was the first to offer authentic Montreal smoked meat sandwiches, and the competition has just heated up with the recent arrival of Western Canada’s first Dunn’s Famous at The Crossroad’s Hotel (2120 - 16th Ave N.E.). Preferences in smoked meat are a cause of heated debate. Natives of Montreal and tourists alike argue vehemently about which deli serves the best sandwich, Schwartz’s or Dunn’s. While admittedly a Schwartz’s man, I recognize that people are entitled to their own opinion (even if they’re wrong) and that people find different pleasures in the subtleties of three inches of smoked meat stuffed between two pieces of rye bread with a little mustard. Located in an industrial park off Mcleod Trail South, Cafe Metro serves a delicious smoked meat sandwich. The restaurant, painted to look like the streets of Montreal, imports their meat fresh from Montreal. Their sandwich is just about the right size and the meat is thinly cut, moist and smoky with a nice touch of pepper. A recent visit proved more rewarding than an earlier encounter over a year ago. However, the cafe only serves their sandwich accompanied by the likes of coleslaw and fries, pushing the price up to $7.95 for a quick, heart-clogging fix. This may seem like a petty flaw, but face it, sometimes you want a sandwich with a pickle, sometimes you want it with a hot pepper, and sometimes it’s best in all its glory unaccompanied. A good sandwich may look small, but its density leaves no doubt why in the ’70s, the Montreal Canadiens would indulge before game time. Open 24 hours a day, Dunn’s Famous is a Montreal landmark. Founded in 1927 by Myer Dunn, the deli that bears his name on St-Catherine’s has a long history of all-day breakfast and hearty smoked meat sandwiches. The Calgary location has the luxury of having a direct link to Montreal, which is reflected in its menu offering the carnivore the choice of what, if anything, will accompany their sandwich (sadly, neither restaurant offers the luxury of a "high fat" sandwich so loved after a night on the town). Calgary’s Dunn’s is fancier than expected, more of a trendy restaurant than a Montreal deli, but the sandwiches come to order. A lone sandwich is a mere $4.25, and for a dollar or two more can be accompanied with a giant pickle, peppers or other tasty sides. The sandwich itself is huge, and the bread small enough not to get in the way of the meat. Yet the meat is somehow lacking for my taste. While it has a pleasant, subtle smoky taste, the meat is cut a little too thick and the sandwich was a confusing mix of fatty yet dry. As in Montreal, smoked meat aficionados will be left debating which sandwich is better (a friend who was a Cafe Metro fiend has already changed colors and is calling Dunn’s home), but when it comes down to it, it all depends on personal taste. For a quick fix, Dunn’s convenient location and low price will attract some. Those more interested in a moister, smoky sandwich will favor Cafe Metro. While nothing compares to the real thing, having two reliable choices for a smoked meat fix is comforting for a soul craving the smell of a Montreal deli (and has already cut down on my courier costs). Both restaurants have smoking sections, however, Dunn’s is not wheelchair friendly. Oh yeah, both restaurants also offer other sandwiches and dishes like lasagna and pizza. As if.

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