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Food by Patrick Rengger Of all the cultures and cuisines of Asia – Chinese, Japanese, Thai and so on – the one that most frequently gets overlooked or lost in the shuffle is Korean. This is a shame, really, for Korea – or Koryo, as it was known before the religious and political changes between 900 and 1400 AD – has both a rich cultural history, a unique language and writing system, and a style of cooking which, while similar to its neighbors, is also unique. Koryo Korean BBQ (188 - 28 Street N.E., phone 235-5033) is a B.C.-based chain of Korean restaurants which has now opened a location in Calgary. The interior design is stylish and modern, in a sort of haute fast food way. This is McKorea in the best sense of that phrase. The food arrives fast, is cooked in an open kitchen in front of you and, while this is not a place for "dining out" in the traditional sense, it does do what it intends to do well. That is, provide inexpensive, reasonably authentic Korean food in a fast and friendly environment. The menu offers a choice of BBQ dishes including beef ($5.49 for lunch, $6.99 for dinner), short ribs ( $6.49/$7.79), and chicken ($5.39/ $6.59), as well as dumplings ($5.39/ $6.39), vegetarian ($6.39) and a variety of combo dishes. All dinner dishes are served with a choice of four side dishes and two scoops of rice, while the lunch version gives you two sides and one scoop of rice. I decided to try the Koryo special combo with ribs, dumplings, beef and chicken ($7.99) while my companion opted for the breaded beef ($5.89/$6.99). For my side dishes I ordered the sweet potatoes, seaweed, egg rolls and noodles. For variety, my companion ordered the kimchee (a spicy cabbage dish), watercress, noodles and marinated zucchini. Both meals came with two large scoops of rice to add to what was already a substantial meal. I found the beef barbecued well and the chicken on my dish particularly tasty, and although the dumplings could at best be described as blandly so-so, the ribs had a zesty flavor. Likewise I was partial to the sweet potatoes and the seaweed, which captured some extra spice and saltiness that added to the tastes. The egg rolls were improved by the addition of soy sauce and the noodles were gelatinous and chewy in a way that was both intriguing and slightly off-putting. My companion’s breaded beef was subtly tasty, and benefited from the presence of the kimchee to add that extra zip, while the zucchini and the watercress balanced the meal well. Koryo also serves up a variety of noodle soups and, for those completely unable to stray from the Western path, burgers as well. The restaurant is also licensed and is accessible to those in wheelchairs and with cigarettes. All in all it may not be the complete Korean experience, but for a quick taste of the peninsular it is a welcome addition to Calgary’s food scene.

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