FFWD Weekly
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| FOOD Sometimes a simple potato can tell a big story. A staple of Greek cuisine, the roast potato can vary from a hard tasteless lump to a mushy mass of starch. But occasionally, a roast potato tastes like an offering from Zeus himself. Such was the case during a recent visit to Athens by Night (1137a 17Ave S.W., 244-1771), a new addition to Calgary's restaurant scene, where one bite was enough to establish it as a city highlight. Athens by Night bears little resemblance to its predecessor, a bikini bar which briefly inhabited the location on 17th Avenue. The owner, who previously operated Andreas Taverna on 4th Street, has developed a clean and simple look, with a large window facing 17th Avenue providing ample light whether it's sunshine or headlights. The space is small, accommodating 15 tables in total, and the result is an intimate space which begs the patron to enjoy the evening. The menu offers classic choices such as Greek salads, souvlaki, octopus, lamb and moussaka, along with some more unusual selections such as chicken livers and quail. My companion and I started the meal with two traditional appetizers, a simple plate of olives and feta ($3.95), and kalamari ($6.95), a litmus test for all Greek restaurants. The olives and feta were disappointing, considering the Kalamata grocery store - which offers some of the city's best feta and olives - is just down the street. Some of the olives were soft, while the feta was on the bland side. However, this was quickly forgotten when the kalamari arrived. The squid was tender and succulent, lightly battered and accompanied by onions and a tzatziki sauce which never overpowered. The dish was amongst the best kalamari I've ever tasted. For our main courses, we decided to skip the roast lamb and souvlaki and travel into less familiar territory. I had the Kotopoulo Gemisto ($12.95), two chicken breasts stuffed with spinach and feta, while my friend chose the Garides Tourkolimano ($13.95), a dish of prawns in a tomato, feta, garlic and wine sauce. The chicken, topped with a lemon sauce, was as rich and delicious as an Onassis family reunion. Every bite of the chicken was fit for the gods, and it came with a a nice side of green beans, rice and the fabulous potato. To be honest, I had ignored the potato until the meal was almost concluded, and by the time I sampled the spud I was no longer hungry, but one taste and I had to have more. This simple morsel, with its tangy flavor, was an unexpected conclusion to a great meal. My companion was also impressed with her prawns, of which there were plenty. The sauce had a hint of cinnamon and added an authentic Greek flavor to the seafood dish, which was served over rice and accompanied by the traditional green beans and the unanimously celebrated roast potato. Athens by Night is a welcome addition to Calgary's stable of Greek restaurants. The service is friendly and efficient, with a bright Mediterranean atmosphere. The restaurant has smoking and non-smoking areas, and is wheelchair accessible. It was busy for a Sunday evening, so reservations are recommended for what will surely become a popular destination. |