FFWD Weekly
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| BOOZE In the wine trade we are frequently asked (particularly by visitors) where one can go to find a decent meal and a good selection of wines by the glass. If this were, say, Paris, Rome or London, the choices would be almost limitless. At Vistro, near Winchester, England, for example, you can choose from a selection of some 200 wines available by the glass to accompany one's meal. Alas, Calgary is not London, and despite our city's growing reputation as a hip, cosmopolitan centre (albeit with an ugly redneck underbelly), the European concept of a wine bar somehow gets a little lost in the translation. The problem exists in that most restaurateurs prefer to sell wines by the bottle, rather than by the glass. Despite the obvious monetary benefits of selling a bottle, another problem exists in keeping the wines from oxidizing once they have been opened. Even with the various wine preservation systems now on the market, most wines should be served over a period of no more than a couple of days, especially when the customer is paying upwards of $5 a glass. That can add up to a significant amount of waste if the selected wines do not continue to sell once the bottle has been opened. The challenge is to educate restaurant staff so that they are familiar with the wines being offered, and can suggest a number of options throughout the meal. This would allow the customer to taste maybe two or three wines with dinner and would move a larger cross-section of wines from the list. Another concept is to offer a "flight" of wines, whereby a selection of identical varietals (usually served as three two-ounce glasses) from different producers are presented alongside each other, offering the customer a chance to taste different styles of a particular wine. By contrast, a flight can also consist of three different vintages of the same wine from one individual producer. Either way, for those who simply want to enjoy a glass (or two) of wine with lunch, or for those who may be (gasp) dining alone, it is frustrating to inquire about wines that may be available by the glass, only to be told that "we have a red and we have a white," and then to be charged $5 for a glass of generic swill, an experience that is all too common in some of Calgary's so-called "fine dining" establishments. So, just where can you get a good selection of wines by the glass? With that question in mind, I set out with a couple of friends (both of whom are well versed in the wine and restaurant trades) to see if we could come up with a guide (albeit not definitive) to the city's wine lists. Out of the three wine bars we tried, Divino, The Wine Gallery and The Embarcadero Wine & Oyster Bar, only Divino delivered on the concept. For one thing, it feels like a wine bar, with the possible exception of the fact that you can't sit at the actual bar, as there are no stools. Their list is well thought out, and is divided among wines from France, Italy and the U.S. There are 18 wines available by the glass, as well as several other featured wines (posted on a blackboard) that change on a regular basis. Prices range from $6 to $9 a glass, and the staff was knowledgeable, friendly and efficient. At Embarcadero (which is about to undergo a name change and a new menu), they offer 13 wines by the glass, most of which are fairly boring. Price per glass ranges from $4.50 to $7.50. I should mention that the oysters were fresh and delicious, and this place does have potential, but the wine list could use a major overhaul. The Wine Gallery (in Bankers Hall) offers 12 wines by the glass, with prices ranging from $4.25 to $7.75 a glass. Again, the selection was somewhat uninteresting, although the owners assured us that a new list will be in place shortly. From here we tried some of the restaurants we know to have a good selection of wines, with fairly predictable results. The River Cafe lists 24 wines by the glass, almost all entirely from the U.S. and Canada (in keeping with the theme of the restaurant), and ranging in price from $5 to $10 a glass. As most anyone that has ever been there can testify, if you're looking for great atmosphere in a relaxing setting, the River Cafe has it in spades. Over at Savoir Fare, on 17th Avenue S.W., they are offering 25 wines by the glass, as well as several more not on the regular list, making this the largest selection out of all the places we tried. Prices range from $5 to $9 a glass, and the staff all seem to have some genuine passion for wine. They could use some more Old World wines on the list (especially in lieu of the skyrocketing prices of California wine), but overall, Savoir Fare continues to offer great food, wine and service at a reasonable price, and remains a perennial favorite. About a block-and-a-half east of Savoir Fare we wandered into Figbelly's new seated section (called Fig 2). The wine list here is small but well planned, and all the wines listed (15 in total) are available by the bottle or by the glass. Prices range from $4.50 to $7 per glass, but the prices for a bottle here are so reasonable that, unless you are alone, it makes sense to order by the bottle. I hope this sort of a mark-up structure becomes the rule rather than the exception. Down the street at Cilantro, we found a selection of 17 wines by the glass, ranging in price from $5 to $10 a glass. The list here is dominated by wines from California (in keeping with their West Coast theme), but you can usually find a few gems from other parts of the world as well. Cilantro was one of the first restaurants in this city to take a few chances and try something different, and the fact that it is still going strong after 10 years says a lot about the quality of this establishment. Also on our list was Escoba, in the Penny Lane Mall. They offer 14 wines by the glass from $4.50 to $7 each. Considering the fact that they work closely with the wine shop above them, we expected a much more interesting selection of wines than what is currently being offered. In all fairness, though, this place has only just changed hands, and the new owners seem intent on getting things right and quick to acknowledge that the wine list needs some work. The service we received was excellent and a return visit down the road should prove worthwhile. Last but not least was Celadon Cafe and Lounge, over on 11th Avenue S.W. They offer 22 wines by the glass, priced between $4 and $7. There are some great values on this list and it has been carefully considered. The enticing atmosphere and attentive service make this an enjoyable place for a glass of wine and definitely worth going back. So, in light of our experience, I can offer this as a conclusion. There is certainly room for someone to take the wine-bar concept further, given the ever-increasing interest in and knowledge of wine. Divino gets my nod for best wine bar and Savoir Fare gets the nod for the best selection of wines by the glass for a restaurant. A greater selection of Old World wines would be welcome in all the places we visited, particularly those from Spain and the south of France, as wines from these regions offer such great value right now. Cheers! |