FFWD Weekly
Copyright © 1997. All Rights Reserved.
The joy of Chinatown has always been exploring.The curious adventurer is able to look beyond the big flashy signs and find the more intimate shops. The same is true for those looking for culinary treats. While Chinatown has always had a lot to offer, often the big flashy places get all the attention while the smaller, cozier restaurants get overlooked. Big places like the Silver Dragon are always crowded, but it's the same crowds that keep the food a little bland and homogenous to suit a wide variety of taste.
It was with some excitement that I went on a little treasure hunt looking for Malay Wok. Since its opening there has been some buzz in the air about the restaurant, which is hidden in a Chinatown strip mall. My sources, it turns out, were reliable.
Located at 116, 303 Centre Street SW (the building with Grabbajabba on the corner) Malay Wok is one of those rare treats: affordable and delicious.
The menu is a mix of Malaysian, Thai and recipes from Singapore. With over 150 items on the menu, there's something for both the adventurous and those looking for their savory Southeast Asian favorites. For those looking for a little spice, dishes can be ordered in the following four categories: medium, hot, super hot and super super hot.
The restaurant itself is nothing fancy. Eight tables tightly packed into a narrow sliver of the strip mall (the bathrooms are down the mall in the food court - ask for a key). However, the restaurant is beehive of activity and flavor. The small kitchen is visible at the back of the room and twice the cook came out to knead dough on a table in the restaurant.
While feasting our eyes on the mouth-watering menu, the head cook (and I presume owner) greeted us and asked a dumbfounding question, "Do you like beer?"
"Yes, do you serve it?" I responded.
"No, but I'll make you fresh crab cooked in beer."
While the offer was tempting, our minds had already been made up. The order was in and the flames started shooting up out of the kitchen.
First up was West Coast tiger prawns in a coconut curry sauce ($8.75). A deep red curry warmed our bellies while rich flavors floated through our mouths. The prawns were complimented with a big dish of sautéed mixed vegetables Singapore style ($7.95). The dish was a tangy mix of vegetables and big chunks of bean curd cooked to perfection. We finished the meal with Mamak Mee Goreng ($7.95), a noodle dish filled with sprout and vegetables. A variation of the well known Malaysian Nasi Goreng, the dish was just a little plain, but provided a nice balance to the other two dishes.
As we drifted back lazily into our chairs, the cook was apprehensive, concerned that there was something wrong with the food. He was delighted to find that we had eaten to our heart's content. The remaining food was quickly packaged up for leftovers the next night.
Like Malaysia itself, Malay Wok is a delightful blend of cultures which I look forward to visiting again and again.
Next time I'm going to order that drunken crab.
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