FFWD Weekly
Copyright © 1997. All Rights Reserved.
Three "Oles" for the red wines of Spain
Spain's quiet wine revolution
by Geoff LastIn these days of constantly escalating prices from the major wine producing regions like Napa Valley and Bordeaux, Spain has been quietly turning out top-notch wines that won't break the bank.
Spain has long produced some of the world's great red wines, but public perception has been, and to a certain extent still is, that the country really only offers cheap table wines and sherries. In truth, Spain has more land under vine than any other country in western Europe, but ranks third in production to Italy and France. It is Spain's rugged terrain that keeps their yields lower than that of their neighbors - and it is this same terrain, or as the French say, "terroir," that is responsible for wines of great depth and flavor.
Grapevines are strange plants in that they often thrive in soils normally considered unfit for weeds, let alone fruit. The harder the vine's roots dig for nutrients and water, the better the quality of the fruit. Spain's La Rioja region produces the country's most famous wines, although of late the region known as the Ribera del Duero is challenging the Rioja with wines of immense complexity and concentration. The red tempranillo grape dominates production both in the Rioja and the Ribera del Duero (where it is known as tinto fino), although more common varietals like cabernet sauvignon and, to a greater measure, grenache, are found as well.
When searching out wines from the Rioja, there are several factors to consider: the wines of this region are divided into three main categories - a crianza, reserva and gran reserva. The wines labeled crianza and reserva must be aged at least one year in oak, while a gran reserva must spend at least two years. The crianza's tend to be softer wines with ripe cherry flavors and lively acidity. The reservas and gran reservas show a complex balance of oak, fruit and often earthy, cigar-like flavors.
Try the 1993 Vina Cumbrero crianza from bodegas Montecillo, a real bargain at around $11 (widely available), and a good example of a very well made crianza Rioja. Also available from the same producer is their 1987 Vina Monty gran reserva, a big, rich wine at its peak of drinkability, also a bargain for a wine of this age and style at about $20. From the Ribera del Duero try the Vina Mayor crianza (around $12 and widely available), a hearty, well-made wine and a great companion to beef or lamb.
Collectors of fine wines should check out the '92 or '93 bodegas Alion, owned by the legendary Vega Sicilia, considered to be Spain's greatest red wine producer. It is wines like this that are helping establish this region as a major player in the world of high-end, collectable wines (and a relative bargain for a wine of this calibre at about $35 with very limited availability).
The Spanish have long been known as a passionate people and that same passion is evident in the country's red wines as they strive to offer solid, complex and delicious wines at prices that are well within reason, especially when one considers the way things are going in other major wine producing areas these days.
New arrivals
Blanton's single barrel bourbon, (about $52 with limited distribution) is another great addition to the growing array of high-end bourbons now available in Alberta. This one offers rich caramel, butterscotch notes with a long, warming finish that is sure to please lovers of fine Kentucky whiskey.
Note: Since my last column I can now be addressed as the "Baron of Bourbon," a title I will endeavor to wear proudly.
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