FFWD Weekly
Copyright © 1997. All Rights Reserved.
Good dining Vietnam
New Bankers Hall restaurant provides best of East and West
by Patrick RenggerScientists have been telling us for years now that the secret to the future's power supply is hidden in the possibilities of fusion. That by combining two nuclei the power released is almost incalculable. Unfortunately, fusion power, at least affordable fusion power, remains an elusive Grail in the nuclear industry.
But what is still a pipe dream in the power stations is a reality in the world of cuisine. Fusion cooking, the blending of two or more styles of food, has been growing in popularity for years and almost everywhere you go now represents some sort of dining combination. And one of the happier results of France's otherwise misguided attempts at forming Southeast Asian colonies was the bringing together of two of the great cuisines of the world - namely French and Vietnamese. The French may have been doomed as colonists and imperial powers, but they have always known a thing or two about food - and for that at least we can all be grateful.
Indochine (2nd floor, Bankers Hall, phone 263-6929) brings to Calgary this remarkable culinary fusion in an environment as stylish as it is cutting edge, even if the idea of fine dining in the middle of a mall is somewhat surreal. After all, we are more used to mall food coming on paper plates and being accompanied by fries, not vermicelli.
What is also surprising is that such quality food, delivered in a restaurant that has not skimped on the design and style of the interior, should also be comparatively affordable. The appetizers included all the usual Vietnamese delights of salad rolls and soups, but my companion and I decided upon two of the more unique items, the grilled la lot leaves ($6.95) and Saigon beef tartar ($5.95). The la lot leaves were wrapped around finely chopped beef which had been marinated in honey, sesame oil, anise and garlic, giving the dish a fascinating taste combination with each flavor providing a delightful balance to the other. The beef tartar, with lime juice, cilantro and onions, was almost as successful, although I was expecting rarer beef and the lime juice was unequally distributed, creating mouthfuls of varying intensity.
For our main course, we chose between a variety of dishes. Skipping lightly over the beef noodle soup ($5.95) and the highly recommended BBQ pork and spring rolls ($6.95), my companion and I alighted on the mahogany quail ($10.95) and the mild coconut chicken curry ($7.95). The curry was quite simply delicious, coming with potatoes, carrots and lemon grass, wrapped in banana leaf and - as with all Indochine's dishes - accompanied by an orchid. The taste of curry was subtle and did not overpower, while at the same time giving more than enough spice to keep the taste buds occupied. The mahogany quail, coated with a soy and five-spice lacquer and served with sticky rice (always a personal favorite) and watercress, were equally delicious, although the small birds require a certain dexterity of manipulation to eat properly.
Indochine also provides sandwiches, which are presumably more of interest to the busy lunchtime crowds than leisurely evening diners.
Naturally, no meal at any kind of Vietnamese restaurant, fusion or otherwise, would be complete without some fine coffee. We finished off the meal splitting the coconut and mango sorbet, which provided the perfect finale to the evening's dining.
Being in the mall, Indochine is completely wheelchair accessible, but it is not smoker friendly so you will have to finish your butts outside the building. It is also busiest at lunchtime - evenings do not normally require reservations, although it should be noted that the kitchen closes at 9 p.m. so you may have to go fairly early.
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